No ATM! San Francisco and Trigana have no ATMs, so make sure you have enough cash to cover all your needs: accommodation, meals, activities and transportation.
In brief
Some places can be visited… and others can be felt. Bosque de los Gigantes clearly falls into the second category. Just a stone’s throw from the village of San Francisco (also known as San Pacho), on the rugged Choco Coast, the forest is not just lush: it’s monumental.
Here, trees don’t grow – they rise. Immense trunks, covered in moss and sprawling roots, rise so high that their tops are lost in the mist. To walk beneath these giants is to change scale. We move forward slowly, almost in silence, as if in a plant cathedral where light filters through a ceiling of infinite leaves. The air is dense, vibrating with bird calls and invisible rustles.
The Bosque de los Gigantes is not just a tropical hike: it’s a total immersion in one of Colombia’s most biodiverse regions. Between humid jungle, cool rivers and wild trails, we discover a raw, powerful Chocó, still untouched by mass tourism. Where the forest touches the sky, time seems suspended – and for a moment, you feel infinitely small and profoundly alive.
Bosque de los Gigantes
- County: Chocó (Caribbean)
- Minimum altitude: 7 m
Maximum altitude: 147 m - Distance: 8 km (round trip from San Fransisco).
- Difficulty: medium
- Climate: rainy intertropical
Our opinion: colossal trees in the heart of silence ★★
The Chocó rainforest, which stretches across the Darién hills, is still largely unknown to travellers. And yet it’s home to some real giants. Not necessarily for their height – around 60 m at most – but for the sheer size of their trunks: some are over 3 m in diameter. Depending on the species, their roots can be just as impressive, extending like natural sculptures above the ground. With a bit of luck, you’ll also be able to observe the local wildlife: we came across a few monkeys, at a respectable distance. However, patience is required to cope with the heat and humidity, as well as a trail that is often very, very muddy. But these little hardships don’t detract from the beauty of the rainforest, rich in surprising plants and permeated by a soothing silence. For us, it’s a must-see experience in the San Francisco – Triganá region, a true enchantment for those seeking to reconnect with nature.
Our experience
The day begins under a heavy sky. Thick clouds clinging to the hills promise imminent rain. We look at each other in silence, a little resigned… then we reassure ourselves: we’ll be spending most of our time sheltered by the great green mantle of the jungle. There, under the canopy, the world is changing.
Our guide meets us in front of the Cocomar Hostal, where we’re staying. Estefanía, our host, took care of everything with that simple efficiency typical of Chocó. There are no sophisticated agencies or online platforms here: everything is word-of-mouth. You express a desire – to discover the Bosque de los Gigantes – and, almost magically, someone appears to make it possible. This system, which seems improvised, is actually surprisingly fluid.
We leave the village, known locally as San Pacho, with our boots on – a decision we’ll soon be blessing. The hike gets off to a gentle start: a street stretching inland, a few colorful houses, a school, a small grocery store where you can still buy water. After that, nothing. The jungle takes over. The concrete disappears, the stones roll underfoot, then the earth takes over. Thick. Slippery. Alive.
Mud is everywhere, sometimes deep, sticky, almost playful. Every step requires attention. We move forward slowly, looking for the most stable place to set foot. The Río Ciego soon comes into view. Less than twenty centimetres of water, but treacherous stones. We cross with uncertain balance, under the amused gaze of our guide.
He’s 28 years old and has a thousand stories to tell. Between two climbs – some of them quite steep – he talks about the forest, the village and music. He recorded in Medellín, mixing reggaeton, afro and reggae. Sometimes, among the trees, he shares a song on his phone. The jungle becomes an improvised concert hall.
At the summit, some 150 metres above sea level, a gap offers a grey view of the coast, just a few kilometers away as the crow flies. The wind is timid, but welcome. Then we plunge back into the even denser vegetation.
And suddenly, they appear.
The giants. Ceiba, caracolí, cativo… Trees that stand 50 to 60 metres tall. But what’s most striking is the trunk: up to three meters in diameter, when the other trees in the vicinity seem frail by comparison. Their roots form veritable natural walls. We feel tiny, almost unreal, in the face of these titans.
Further on, one of them lies on the ground, blown over by the wind. Its fall opened a clearing in the canopy, letting in fresh light. The broken branches form a monumental chaos that we cross with the help of our hands. Here, the forest recalls its raw power.
It’s in this area, the kingdom of the forest masters, that our progress comes to an end. Few animals that day: a distant toucan, a few monkeys spotted from a distance. Silence dominates. Three hours of hiking, dense heat and the sensation of having entered an ancient world.
We return to the village hungry and happy. In front of these rare trees, impossible to ignore, one thing becomes clear: nature demands respect. And it reminds us, gently but firmly, of the modest place we occupy in its immensity.
Guide and rates
We strongly recommend that you go with a local guide. The Bosque de los Gigantes trail is not signposted, and several intersections can be confusing. Without clear reference points, it’s easy to take the wrong path, especially in a dense jungle where everything looks the same.
There’s nothing complicated about arranging this: as is often the case in the region, all you need to do is speak to your accommodation one or two days in advance. The locals all know each other and can quickly put you in touch with someone available. It’s a familiar place for locals, who visit it regularly.
On our side, Estefanía, the owner of Cocomar Hostal (which we warmly recommend), took care of everything. We went with the cook’s son, and the experience was perfect: simple, friendly and reassuring.
On the budget side, allow around 60,000 COP for two people.
Where to sleep San Fransisco (Caribbean Choco) ?
Please note: the majority of our accommodations are not listed on major booking platforms such as Booking. Contacts are most often made directly with owners, usually via Instagram or WhatsApp.
Finding a place to sleep in San Francisco is an integral part of the trip. Forget standardized hotel complexes: the offer is made up mainly of small, human-scale structures run by local residents. The welcome is simple, sincere and warm. From cozy inns and houses overlooking the bay to more rustic accommodations in the heart of nature, there’s a place to suit everyone’s desire for calm and authenticity.
Given the small size of the village, staying in Triganá, which can be reached in around 50 minutes on foot, is also an interesting option. This allows you to vary the atmosphere while exploring the southern part of the Caribbean Chocó.
In this section, we’ll help you identify the accommodation best suited to your travel style, expectations and budget.
San Fransisco
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Al Vaivén De Hamacas
Al Vaivén De Hamacas is a place that travelers describe as deeply soothing. We come here to slow down, let ourselves be lulled by the hammocks and enjoy a sincere, caring atmosphere. The home-cooked meals are often praised, as is the attentive welcome from the hosts. The comfort remains simple, but the experience is authentic and warm.
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Ecohotel Caracoli
The Ecohotel Caracoli has a simple, authentic atmosphere, with functional rooms that are close to nature and often open onto tropical vegetation. Travelers generally praise the cleanliness of the rooms, the basic but appropriate comforts, and the warm welcome provided by the staff. It’s not a luxurious hotel, but an immersive one.
$$ – Average budget
Hotel
CocoMar Hostal
Estefanía is an exceptional host, present and attentive from the beginning to the end of our stay. We spent four nights with her and felt accompanied every step of the way. The cabins, just a few steps from the sea and 20 seconds from the pontoon, are simple but clean. The food is delicious and the help in organizing activities really invaluable.
Trigana
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Treegana Hostal
Treegana Hostal captivates with its simple, immersive atmosphere in the heart of the jungle, surrounded by lush vegetation. Rooms are basic but comfortable, some with private bathrooms, offering the essentials for resting after an active day. Travelers appreciate the swimming pool, shared kitchen and breakfast. An attentive welcome. An authentic address, without superfluous luxury, but full of charm.
$$ – Average budget
Hotel
Hotel Cabañas Anayansy
Travelers who have stayed at Cabañas Anayansy describe a simple, unpretentious experience. The cabañas are private, with in-house bathrooms, double beds and bunk beds, giving a rustic yet functional feel. Feedback highlights a very natural atmosphere, with basic facilities: fans rather than air-conditioning, simple furnishings and limited services. The property is beautiful and well kept.
$$$ – High budget
Hotel
Hotel Acuarium Turístico
Travelers report that Hotel Acuarium Turístico rooms are simple but clean, and that the staff are friendly and smiling, giving a relaxed atmosphere to the stay. Some appreciate the tranquility and easy access to the beach, while others note that services remain basic, with no luxurious extras – rather a humble and sincere place to rest after a day’s sightseeing.
Notes & tips
Take mosquito repellent with you
Don’t forget to take mosquito repellent with you: in tropical environments, it quickly becomes indispensable. In the Choco jungle, humidity and heat favor their presence, especially at the end of the day. So it’s best to apply suitable protection regularly, so you can enjoy your walks undisturbed.
Watch out for snakes!
It’s also important to keep an eye out for spearheads, known as mapaná in the region. This venomous snake lives in the Chocó region of the Caribbean, although it generally stays away from dwellings. Mainly active at night, it is advisable to use a headlamp after dark. Stay on marked trails and avoid walking barefoot or in tall grass.
Pants + long sleeves for hiking
For your walks in the forest, choose lightweight pants and breathable long sleeves. This outfit will effectively protect you from insects, thorns and the dense vegetation that lines the trails. Closed shoes with good grip are also recommended to avoid slips and minor injuries. Being well equipped makes exploration more comfortable and safer.
Hiking in boots
We advise you to wear boots for hiking, as the Choco climate is particularly humid and rain is never far away. The trails quickly become muddy and slippery. You may also have to cross small rivers, generally shallow (10 to 15 cm), but deep enough to soak conventional shoes. The best thing is to talk to your accommodation a day or two beforehand.
Take water with you
Exertion combined with the heat and humidity of the jungle causes profuse sweating and rapid dehydration. It’s essential to bring enough water for a three-hour hike, to stay in shape throughout.
