3-day tour of the Guajira desert

Welcome to our captivating account of our exploration of the Guajira Desert in Colombia, the end of the world and the northernmost point of South America! Golden dunes, endless horizons, the ocean and the enchanting essence of Wayuu lands await you on this three-day adventure of discovery. A look back at our experience and our opinion of this classic 3-day tour, carried out with a local agency.

From “encounters” with local communities to exploring the secluded beaches of Bahía Honda and the dunes of Punta Gallinas, every moment reveals a unique cultural and natural richness. Come with us to discover this remote corner, where the desert and the Caribbean Sea come together in a striking tableau. Get ready to immerse yourself in an immersive experience of age-old traditions, breathtaking landscapes and unexpected wonders.

Legend: Blue: tour departure/return – Yellow: activities & visits – Green: accommodation – Orange: restaurants

Discover below the detailed program of our 3-day tour of the Guajira desert, with Kai Ecotravel. We also share our daily impressions of this experiment, carried out in early May, during the first part of the rainy season (spoiler: we didn’t see a single drop of water).

We strongly recommend that youarrive in Riohachathe day before the tour starts, to avoid any potential delays in transport (by bus or plane).

This is an adventurous trip, featuring a demanding itinerary devoid of the comforts of conventional tourism. Water is scarce, and electricity comes from gasoline-powered generators and solar panels. The road is unpaved and dusty. The sun and heat are constant during the day, while it’s “cool” at night. Accommodation is in the Wayuu communities visited, as there are no conventional hotels.

Due to the conditions of the trip, it is not recommended for small children or the elderly with chronic health problems. However, health services (hospitals) are available in Uribía, Manaure and Maicao, and health posts in Puerto Bolívar, Paraíso and Cabo de la Vela.

Poverty and informal toll booths: the boom in tourism in recent years has been accompanied by an increasing frequency of informal toll booths, set up with ropes by indigenous children begging for water, food or money. These moments can be uncomfortable, sad and unpleasant for the locals. However, it is essential to understand this as an integral part of the reality of this autonomous indigenous territory, governed by its own norms and customs. To alleviate this situation, guides and drivers carry food for distribution. In addition, visitors may, if they see fit, participate by purchasing products considered appropriate for children and their families. Unfortunately, some drivers behave in shocking ways, forcing their way into these informal toll booths, or handing out food as if the natives were animals. It’s important to be aware of this aspect of travelling in the Guajira desert.

DAY 1 – Direction Cabo de la Vela

08:00 Welcome in the town of Riohacha and departure for Cabo de la Vela.
Visit to the Manaure and Uribia salt mines.
Lunch at Cabo de la Vela.
Visit Pilon de Azucar beach and sunset at the lighthouse.
Return to Cabo de la Vela: dinner and accommodation in Chinchorro.

Our experience: our journey begins with the driver picking us up from the hotel, accompanied by two French compatriots in the spacious 4×4. The journey, which took longer than expected, took us to the Manaure salt flats near Riohacha, an enigmatic place devoid of explanations. Our local guide gives us a brief tour of the area, but the local saleswomen try to charm us. After this first disappointing stop, Uribia, the last stop before the desert, turns out to be a run-of-the-mill town, where an hour-and-a-half’s break is needed for shopping and a drink. On the road to Cabo de la Vela, the landscape changes from rocky desert full of shrubs to sparse desert. The dirt track leads us to Cabo de la Vela, and our rudimentary open-air accommodation, with a simple roof, hammocks and communal sanitary facilities. A traditional Colombian rice-meat-fish-salad meal follows, followed by free time in Cabo, with optional swimming and kitesurfing. Our driver then guides us to sites such as the Pilón de Azúcar lighthouse and beach, which are pleasant but not extraordinary. The day concludes with sunset, the return to Cabo de la Vela for dinner, relaxation and the hope of a refreshing night’s sleep in anticipation of the day ahead.

DAY 2 – Off to the end of the world, Punta Gallinas

Breakfast.
Departure for Punta Gallinas, via Puerto Bolivar and Portete Bay.
Lunch at Bahia Honda.
Visit the Dunes, Taroa beach and Punta Gallinas lighthouse.
Dinner and accommodation in a chinchorro in Punta Gallinas (Hospedaje Luzmila).

Our experience: after a strangely cool (take a blanket!) and unrestful night in hammocks, unusual for us, we had breakfast before setting off again for Punta Gallinas. The road deteriorates, becoming barely visible, and the informal tolls of the locals appear, a humanly difficult and surprising moment. Anticipating this, the driver hands out cakes and water without coming to a complete stop, a scene we’ll encounter some fifteen times, without ever getting used to. In the heart of the increasingly sandy desert, with nothing around except a few scattered farms, we discover a small, isolated restaurant near Bahía Honda bay for lunch (lobster optional). Back on the road to Punta Gallinas, South America’s most northerly point, imposing dunes appear. We stop to cross them and reach the sea on the other side, refreshing our spirits. Nearby is the Punta Gallinas lighthouse. At the end of the day, we visit a Wayuu farm, sharing a ride with the father and two energetic little girls. As the sun sets, the family lights a fire and presents us with a traditional Wayuu dance, the yonna, a timeless moment. Unfortunately, it’s time to head for our accommodation, also located on the bay, a large, strangely large and equally basic structure. A dinner similar to the first awaits us. Coinciding with our driver’s birthday, we share a few Venezuelan Polar beers and glasses of aguardiente. It’s bedtime, still in hammocks, for another long night.

DAY 3 – Return to Riohacha

Breakfast.
Departure for Uribía by boat via Bahía Hondita.
Lunch at Mayapo beach.
Arrival in Riohacha & end of excursion.

Our experience: the second night turns out to be just as tricky as the first, but the comfort of breakfast cheers us up! For our final day, the program is simple but intense: a long drive back to Riohacha. Our driver leaves early, but it’s not an oversight. He’s waiting for us at a special spot, as we’ll be crossing part of the bay in a lancha. The place is a striking sight, blending the yellow/orange of the desert with the blue of the water, and home to the pink flamingos we’ll spot on our boat trip. Once back on dry land, we set off again for Uribia, where we’ll have lunch at one of the agency’s partner hotels. The final leg takes us to Riohacha. We arrive around 4.30pm, our bodies a little rusty after so many hours in the car, shaken by the state of the “road”. So ends our first adventure in the Guajira desert, leaving us with a feeling of incompleteness and many questions. After this mixed experience, we’re determined to come back and explore this region in a different way.

Excursion by 4×4, group of 4 tourists in total.
Itinerary may vary according to weather conditions.
Our driver/guide spoke only Spanish. English translator available at extra cost.

Accommodation

On a tour of the Guajira desert, accommodation offers a unique, rustic experience. Accommodations, designed to blend into the desert landscape, can take the form of wooden cabins, traditional Wayuu structures or rudimentary campsites. A distinctive feature of some accommodations is the possibility of sleeping in hammocks in shared areas, offering total immersion in the local atmosphere. Sanitary facilities are generally simple, with shared toilets and showers. There is also the option of sleeping in a private room, with a bed, the room will be just as basic.

In these remote areas, electricity can be limited, sometimes supplied by generators or solar panels, with restricted hours of use. These accommodations offer an authentic experience, allowing travelers to get closer to local life and Wayuu traditions. And of course, there’s no wifi.

Let’s face it: don’t expect to find a cozy haven of comfort after a day in the desert. However, it’s easy to get used to, especially as it only lasts a few nights. But we have to take this aspect into account.

Power supply

Meals are generally simple and functional, in harmony with the region’s rural and isolated environment. Basic ingredients often include rice, a protein source such as fish or meat, sometimes goat, and a salad, all washed down with local fruit juices.

Meals are prepared in a rudimentary fashion, but offer an opportunity to sample traditional Colombian cuisine, highlighting local flavors. Side dishes may vary, but fresh fruit and regional fruit juices are commonly served to add a touch of freshness.

If you have any special dietary requirements, such as a vegetarian diet, it is essential to inform the agency before the tour begins. In this way, meals can be adapted to suit your particular dietary preferences.

Riohacha, capital of Guajira, can be reached directly or with stopovers from the country’s main cities, such as Bogotá, Medellín, Cartagena, Santa Marta and Bucaramanga. Please note, however, that to our knowledge there are no buses from Cali, Manizales, Pereira or Armenia to Riohacha.

The nearest airport is Almirante Padilla, just outside Riohacha. Connections are provided by Avianca and Latam. Depending on your departure city, you may have to make a stopover in Bogotá.

Main bus connections (non-exhaustive list) :

Bogotá – Riohacha by bus

Bucaramanga – Riohacha by bus

Cartagena – Riohacha by bus

Palomino – Riohacha by bus

Palomino is a small village, and there’s no bus terminal. Stay on the main road (to the right, if you’re facing the sea), raise your hand to stop a bus, ask if it’s going to Riohacha, if so, hop on and off you go! The journey takes about 1h30 and costs around 12,000 COP. If you’re not sure, ask the locals – they know this route inside out.

Santa Marta – Riohacha by bus

Let’s tackle the crucial question: what about the cost of this adventure? The determining factor is the number of participants. As a general rule, a tour can accommodate a maximum of 6 people. The larger the group, the lower the cost per person. So if you’re planning a tour exclusively for you and your partner, be prepared for a significantly higher cost, as you’ll be on your own. A good tip is to check with the agencies you’re interested in to see if they have groups available on the dates you want, so you can share the cost and meet other travelers.

We chose the Kai Ecotravel agency. Their tours are rather classic, neither the cheapest nor the most expensive. However, in retrospect, we feel that an agency more focused on Wayuu culture and social interaction would have been preferable. These elements were neglected on our tour, which focused mainly on discovering the varied landscapes and taking photos.

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INCLUDES

• Pick-up on departure from Riohacha. End of tour in Riohacha.
• Transport by 4×4 vehicle for up to 6 passengers.
• Spanish-speaking driver-guide.
• 1 night at Cabo de la Vela + 1 night at Punta Gallinas in a hammock.
• All activities shown on the map (Manaure saltworks, Pilón de Azúcar, El Faro, Puerto Bolívar, Bahía de Portete, las Dunas, Taroa beach, Faro de Punta Gallinas, Bahía Hondita).
• Full meals from lunch on day one to lunch on day three. Lunches and dinners include one drink. Vegetarian dishes available, or adaptation to dietary restrictions.

NOT INCLUDED

• Plane or bus tickets to Riohacha.
• 19% VAT (IVA in Spanish), only for Colombians and foreigners resident in Colombia.
• Bilingual guide (additional charge of 360,000 COP / day).
• Activities, beverages and food not indicated in the plan (e.g. alcohol, lobster, etc.).
• Accommodation in private rooms (supplement of 35,000 COP per night and per person).
• Tips.