Ciudad Perdida: jungle journey to the Tayronas ruins

Nestled in the heart of the Colombian jungle, the Ciudad Perdida, or“Lost City” in French, is one of South America’s most fascinating archaeological wonders. The site, also known as Teyuna, offers a journey back in time through the remains of the Tayrona civilization. Exploring this ancestral city requires an epic adventure through the steep trails of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, but the reward is well worth the effort. In this article, we delve into the history, exploration and experience of the Ciudad Perdida, an unforgettable adventure in the heart of Colombia.

The Ciudad Perdida is closed for the whole month of October every year!

Legend: Blue: Camps (varies according to agency) – Yellow: Sites of interest – Green: Starting points (according to agency)

The Tayronas: a mysterious civilization

The Tayronas are an indigenous people who inhabited the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta region long before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. The Tayrona (or Tairona) civilization, belonging to the Chibcha family, flourished in northern Colombia between 200 and 1600 CE. Like the Muisca of Cundinamarca, the Tairona were renowned for their skills in crafts and metallurgy, particularlygoldsmithing.

The indigenous Kogi, Arhuacos, Wiwa and Cancuamo communities currently populating the region are considered to be descendants of the Tayrona people.

Social and political organization

The Tayrona civilization had a system of government closely linked to religion. Their leaders were members of the shamanic elite, claiming power over natural forces and the cosmos, as well as over human thoughts and actions. One of the fundamental beliefs of the Tayronas was the concept of transformation, a shamanic process in which, through mental and physical purification, prolonged fasting and intense ritual dance, shamans aspired to transcend human mortality and gain access to knowledge from unexplored cosmic spheres, inaccessible to other individuals.

These shamans were considered to be the spiritual guides and were highly respected. They were responsible for the mobilization of troops, agricultural management, the general welfare of citizens, as well as trade and exchange. The Tayronas believed in the ability of shamans to leave their bodies to acquire knowledge from other beings, which inspired their practice of metallurgy. Most of the jewelry discovered in their living sites depicted people transforming into animals, such as the famous “Bat Man”, representing a shaman metamorphosing into a bat.

Just below them were the warriors and craftsmen, who played a crucial role in defending the community and producing handicrafts such as pottery, jewelry and textiles. At the bottom of the social ladder were farmers and workers, who cultivated the terraced lands and contributed to the society’s food supply.

Spirituality and art

Like many peoples of this period, the Tayronas were deeply influenced by their religious beliefs, which were reflected in their art and metalwork. Ornaments often depicted individuals apparently metamorphosing into creatures such as birds of prey, crocodiles and snakes. These adornments were not only status symbols, but also representations of the powers attributed to those who wore them.

Contrary to the widespread belief that ancient Colombia was primarily renowned for its goldsmithing, it was also an important center of ceramic production. The earliest ceramic artefacts discovered in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta region date back to around 2500 B.C., although production only seems to have flourished from 200 A.D. onwards. Furthermore, similarities in goldsmithing between the Tayronas and Muisca have been noted, as these two Chibcha-speaking tribes share a wide variety of offerings for their deities, as well as a similar type of figurines in tumbaga, an alloy of gold, copper and silver, depicting scenes from daily life.

It’s also interesting to note that researchers believe the Tayronas practiced divorce, and that their religious rituals, similar to those of contemporary Kogui, were marked by long sessions of deliberation, coca chewing and deep meditation lasting several days.

Religion played a central role in the lives of the Tayronas, who believed in a pantheon of deities linked to nature and the elements. They worshipped mountain, sea, river and forest spirits, and believed in the existence of a spiritual world interconnected with their own.

Advanced knowledge

The Tayronas excelled not only in metallurgy, but also in agriculture. Archaeological digs dating back to 200 A.D. reveal that they mastered terrace cultivation, canal construction and stone foundation building, to maximize agricultural yields in the steep mountains. However, their fame did not stem from these skills, but rather from their remarkable skill in warfare. This reputation made themone of the tribes most resistant to colonization by the Spanish conquistadores, who had easily overthrown the Inca, Aztec and Mayan empires. The Tayronas fought the conquistadores for over 75 years.

It’s hardly surprising, then, that many Spaniards grew to admire and record accounts of this mysterious and powerful tribe, capable of defying Western influence. Chroniclers described their way of life, their trading systems, their religious beliefs and their apparent lack of interest in the monetary value of precious metals.

In addition, the Tayronas were keen observers of the night sky, and developed a precise lunar calendar based on the phases of the moon. Their astronomical knowledge was integrated into their ritual calendar, which governed the cycles of planting, harvesting and spiritual celebration.

Discovering Ciudad Perdida

The Ciudad Perdida, lost in the heart of the Colombian jungle, was found by accident by grave robbers in the 1970s. These looters, in search of buried treasure, accidentally uncovered the first traces of the ancient city, triggering a process that would lead to the rediscovery and recognition of the importance of this exceptional archaeological site.

A lost city?

The Tayronas were forced to leave their towns and villages around the middle of the 17th century, due to pressure from the Espangol invaders, and most of their traces were gradually buried by the forest. A few vestiges remain, however, bearing witness to their remarkable civilization.

One of their most famous sites is the Ciudad Perdida (=Lost City), also known locally as Teyuna, founded around 800 CE, 600 years before Machu Picchu. It is one of the most important pre-Columbian archaeological sites in South America. Legend has it that, in 1650, the indigenous community deliberately abandoned the Lost City, fearing that it would be discovered and destroyed by the colonizers. Over time, the city was abandoned and remained hidden under the jungle for centuries.

Accessible after a long and arduous walk through dense vegetation and almost 1,200 stone steps, this city is thought to have been home to between 2,000 and 8,000 inhabitants. The lost city is located between 900 and 1,300 metres above sea level.

Only part of this impressive city has so far been explored in depth, revealing some 250 mud and stone terraces that served as bases for dwellings, spread over 300,000 square metres of lush terrain. More recent excavations have also uncovered fascinating objects, such as ornaments, gold offerings, pottery and even musical instruments.

The chance rediscovery

Grave robbers, acting without authorization or supervision, unearthed ancient objects, artifacts andstone structures covered by dense jungle vegetation. Their discovery attracted the attention of local authorities and archaeologists, who quickly realized the site’s historical and cultural significance.

Subsequent archaeological excavations have revealed the scale and complexity of the Tayrona civilization, as well as the richness of its tangible and intangible heritage. The city was discovered in 1972 by a group of Colombian explorers led by American archaeologist Richard Evans Schultes. However, it is believed that the indigenous populations of the region had known of the existence of the lost city for generations.

Hundreds of structures have been uncovered, including houses, temples, public squares and irrigation systems, offering valuable insight into the daily lives of the region’s ancient inhabitants.

The discovery of Ciudad Perdida also raised major conservation and preservation challenges. Due to its isolated location and limited accessibility, the city was vulnerable to damage from vegetation,erosion, bad weather and then unregulated tourism.

Cultural significance

The Ciudad Perdida is of immense cultural importance on many levels, both for Colombia and for the whole world. Its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site testifies to its exceptional value and impact on history and culture.

UNESCO World Heritage

In 1979, Ciudad Perdida was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in recognition of its cultural, historical and archaeological importance. This designation underlines the exceptional universal value of the site and its role in preserving the cultural diversity of mankind.

As a World Heritage Site, Ciudad Perdida enjoys international recognition and special protection, contributing to its long-term conservation and promotion as a sustainable tourist destination.

Spiritual connection

For the indigenous peoples of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the Ciudad Perdida is much more than an archaeological site. It is a sacred place, a symbol of their cultural and spiritual heritage, and the center of their cosmic universe.

For these communities, the Ciudad Perdida is the place where their ancestors lived in harmony with nature, where mountain spirits watch over them and where ancestral traditions are preserved. It is the scene of sacred rituals, spiritual ceremonies and cultural practices that perpetuate the memory of ancestors and strengthen the bonds between present and future generations.

Exploring the Ciudad Perdida (yes, you can discover this ancient place!) is a unique and rewarding adventure, but it requires adequate preparation to guarantee a safe and enjoyable experience. After all, it’s a hike lasting several days. Here are some practical tips for travellers planning to visit the Ciudad Perdida.

Trek program

DAY 1

07:30 – 8:00: pick-up from agency office to meet other travelers, guide and finalize logistics/administration (payment).
Route from Santa Marta to EL Mamey. 3 hours.
Lunch at El Mamey village.
Afternoon walk of 3 to 5 hours to the first camp.
Swimming in a natural pool.
Talk about local farmers and the history of this region.
Dinner.

DAY 2

The second day will be spent mainly in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta indigenous reserve.

1. Camp Adam – Mumake (Approx. 4 hours’ walk)
The first two hours are uphill. This could be the most demanding part of the morning.
Break at the top of the mountain. Another 2 hours from the top of the mountain to Mumake camp.
Time to swim and relax before lunch.

2. Mumake – Camp Lorenzo (Approx. 4 hours’ walk)
2 more hours from Camp Mumake to the top of the mountain. This is a demanding section.
Once at the top, an amazing dish filled with oranges and pineapples to refresh before continuing.
From the top of the mountain, it’s another 2 hours to Camp 3.
Camp Lorenzo is the name of our accommodation for the second night. It is itself located 1 hour from the famous Ciudad Perdida.
On arrival, relax by the Buritaca River before dinner.
Dinner and explanation of the next day and Ciudad Perdida in general.

DAY 3

Visit to the Ciudad Perdida
Start hiking to the Ciudad Perdida around 6:00 am.
It takes around 40 minutes to reach the first of the 1,200 steps of the Lost City. 20-30 minutes to reach the first platforms of the archaeological site
Walk around the Lost City, recognizing this archaeological site sacred to the indigenous tribes of the Sierra Nevada for around 4 hours.
Free time to wander around the Ciudad Perdida.

Start of the return journey
After visiting the Lost City, return to Camp Lorenzo for lunch.
After lunch, free time to rest and bathe before heading back to camp 2.
3-hour walk from Camp 3 to Mumake Camp 2, for another swim in the Buritaca River, Dinner.

DAY 4

3-hour walk from Camp Mumake 2 to Camp 1.
1 hour and 30 minutes mainly uphill. Very demanding part of the day.
At Camp 1, natural juices and snacks to refresh before continuing for the last 3 hours to El Mamey.
1 hour climb. Very demanding part of the day.
2 hours of descent to complete this incredible adventure to the Lost City.
In Mamey, a good lunch is provided, as are the cars for the return to Santa Marta, between 4:00 and 5:00 pm.

Preparation and organization

Physical and mental preparation

The trek to Ciudad Perdida is a demanding one, generally lasting 4 days, with climatic conditions that are often hot and humid. It’s therefore essential to prepare yourself physically by doing endurance exercises and strengthening your physical condition before setting off. Expect to walk around 7 hours a day, through jungle in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The road won’t be flat, far from it! And when it rains, the hours can seem long (yes, rain or shine, you’ll be walking no matter what).

In addition, it’s important to prepare yourself mentally for the challenges of the trek, including fatigue,discomfort (nights spent in hammocks, in indigenous wooden villages) and possible difficulties along the way.

Warning: this is clearly NOT an activity suitable for children, the elderly, or even adults who are not accustomed to physical activity.

Don’t carry too much, to travel light. The agency you’ll be trekking with will keep your suitcase or large bag in their offices during this time.

This kind of expedition involves dangers such as falls, ankle sprains and dehydration. We strongly recommend the use of hiking boots with non-slip soles. Keep yourself well hydrated during the hike.

Departure dates and locations

When to do the Ciudad Perdida trek?

The best time to trek Ciudad Perdida in Colombia is during the dry season. During this period, weather conditions are more stable, with less rain and more pleasant temperatures for hiking. However, it’s important to note that even during the dry season, there can be occasional rainfall, andhumidity levels remain quite high. In this part of Colombia, the notions of “dry season” and “rainy season” have much less value than in the Amazon, for example.

The weather is hot and humid. Temperatures change little throughout the year, averaging 28ºC during the day and 17ºC at night in the mountains.

Dry season: December to March.

Rainy seasons: May and June and September to November.

Annual closure in October: Ciudad Perdida is always closed for the whole month of October, at the request of the indigenous communities, so that they can carry out their ceremonies in peace and allow nature to regenerate.

From which towns does the Ciudad Perdida trek start?

The Ciudad Perdida trek generally starts from the town of Santa Marta. Santa Marta is the closest town to the entrance to the national park where Ciudad Perdida is located, and is therefore the usual starting point for hikers wishing to undertake this trek.

But depending on the agency, it is also possible to start from Minca or Palomino.

Can we do the Ciudad Perdida trek with an agency or on our own?

The Ciudad Perdida trek is MANDATORY with a guide. This region, and this activity, is supervised and controlled by the indigenous people of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

And don’t even think about trying to do it yourself. There’s only one road, and the natives on it are bound to ask you where your guide is, and clearly, they won’t let you pass through their lands if you don’t respect THEIR conditions.

How much does the Ciudad Perdida trek cost?

The price of the Ciudad Perdida trek is the same for ALL agencies. There’s no need to compare agencies or negotiate, it’s the same everywhere.

And it tends to increase every year. Today it’s a real budget. Just a few years ago, trekking was half the price!

INCLUDES

• Transport by van or jeep 4×4 from Santa Marta or even Minca or Palomino
• Native guide
• English translator
• Complete diet, snacks and fruit on the trail
• Hammock accommodation (few beds available, on request)
• Entrance to the archaeological park
• Travel insurance
• Contribution to the indigenous community
• Contribution to the farming community

Which agency to use for the Ciudad Perdida trek?

According to travelers’ feedback, most agencies are similar in terms of the quality of their services. All agencies use Spanish-speaking native guides (English-speaking guides are also available). And all agencies take the same routes and stop at the same places to sleep.

Here are the main agencies favoured by French-speaking travellers:

1. Wiwa Tours
2. Turcol
3. Wiwa Walkers
4. Magic Tour
5. Expotur