It’s a question regularly asked by travellers seeking adventure in Latin America. For decades, the country has been associated with violence, drug trafficking and armed conflict. Names like Pablo Escobar and FARC have left their mark on the collective imagination, and for many, the image of an unstable Colombia persists to this day. Yet this perception no longer reflects the reality of the country as it is today.
Since the 2000s, Colombia has undergone profound changes. The security climate has largely improved thanks to policies of peace, development and reconciliation. Millions of travellers now go there every year to discover its Caribbean beaches, lush nature, dynamic cities and hospitable people. But does this mean there are no risks? Not quite.
In this article, we take a closer look at the country’s security situation, the precautions to be taken, and the still-sensitive realities in certain regions. Because understanding the nuances of the current situation is essential if you are to travel with peace of mind in Colombia – a country that deserves to be seen in a different light, and which attracts several million visitors a year (3rd most visited country in Latin America after Mexico and the Dominican Republic).
Country situation
Evolution of violence: continuous improvement
- 1948-1958: instability and outbreak of violence. The origins of armed conflict in Colombia date back to the middle of the 20th century, in a context marked by profound social inequalities, the absence of the state in vast rural areas, and political violence. After the civil war known as La Violencia (1948-1958), which pitted liberals against conservatives, several Marxist-inspired groups, including FARC (1964) and ELN (1965), emerged to demand land reform and social justice. Their struggles intensified in the face of army repression and the growing influence of large landowners. In the 1980s, the conflict became more complex with the rise of drug cartels and the emergence of paramilitary militias supported by local elites. Colombia thus entered a protracted, multi-front war involving ideology, drug trafficking and territorial power.
- 1980s-1990s: drug cartels and guerrillas. The 1980s saw the rise of the Medellín and Cali cartels, led by Pablo Escobar and the Rodríguez Orejuela brothers, who spread terror (bombings, targeted assassinations, kidnappings) to control the cocaine trade. In 1989, presidential candidate Luis Carlos Galán, a staunch opponent of the drug traffickers, was assassinated by hitmen linked to the cartels. In 1991, the homicide rate in Medellín reached 381 per 100,000. At the same time, the Marxist guerrilla group FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) and other groups (ELN) controlled vast rural areas, committing ambushes and kidnappings (including the kidnapping of French-Colombian hostage Ingrid Betancourt in 2002).
- Late 1990’s – early 2000’s: arm wrestling and disarmament. Under President Álvaro Uribe (2002-2010), the State launched the “Democratic Security Policy” and, with international support (Plan Colombia), stepped up the fight against armed groups. The paramilitaries (United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia, AUC) began their demobilization in 2003, formalized by the Justice and Peace Law in 2005. Pablo Escobar, the symbol of drug terror, was killed by the police in 1993. According to the UN, the annual number of homicides fell from over 27,000 in 2002 (an all-time high) to around 20,000 at the end of 2000s.
- 2012-2016: peace with FARC. Under President Juan Manuel Santos (2010-2018), negotiations led to a historic peace agreement signed on September 26, 2016, officially ending nearly 50 years of armed conflict with FARC. This definitive ceasefire was hailed as “the last day of war”. Government forces and FARC ceased hostilities, and thousands of guerrillas laid down their arms. The effects were immediate: the homicide rate fell to its lowest level since 1974 (24.4/100,000 in 2016). Tourism booms again (Cartagena, Medellín…).
- Since 2017: progress and residual violence. Peace is not absolute. After 2016, FARC split: the majority began a political transition, but dissidents refused the agreement, joined new armed groups or reorganized (dissident ex-FARC, Gulf Clan, reinforced ELN). Homicides, after having fallen, are rising slightly: the police counted ~25,850 homicides in 2022, a rate of 26.1/100,000. Some rural areas in the south-west (Caquetá, Nariño, Cauca…) are seeing a resurgence of local armed conflict, with exactions by dissident groups. In addition, the proliferation of weapons and drug traffickers is fuelling a climate of insecurity, particularly in certain urban suburbs (robberies, assaults). Gustavo Petro’s presidency (since 2022) aims for “total peace”, but is confronted with these challenges on the ground, notably an increase in the number of assassinations of social leaders in 2022-2023.
Major progress, but persistent challenges
Despite the remaining problems, the trend over several decades is positive: Colombia is now far less violent than it was in 1990. According to the World Health Organization, homicide used to account for 15% of all causes of death; by 2021, the homicide rate had halved compared with the 1990s. Cities that were once murderous have changed their profile. Bogotá, the capital, reduced its rate from 81/100,000 in 1993 (4,352 homicides) to just 19/100,000 in 2007 (1,401 homicides), as the “Comunidad Segura” policy improved urban safety. Medellín itself, “miraculously” transformed, went from a rate of 381/100,000 in 1991 to 20.17 in 2015. The urban development plan, which combines social infrastructure and police reinforcement, has contributed to this “metamorphosis”.
Medellín (Antioquia) shows the contrast: once a cartel battleground (381 homicides per 100,000 in 1991), the city has benefited from urban reforms and the disarmament of paramilitaries to drastically reduce its crime (≈20/100,000 in 2015).
At the same time, the demobilization of paramilitaries in the 2000s (Uribe peace accords, disarmament of the AUC in 2006) has limited civilian massacres. Political kidnappings, which still frightened people in the 90s and 2000s, have fallen sharply (fewer than 200 cases a year today, compared with thousands previously). Overall, the indicators (homicides, kidnappings, population displacements) show significant declines after the peace agreements, as highlighted by the Truth Commission (450,000 dead between 1985-2018 and 7.7 million displaced): these figures, although still heavy, stopped rising after 2016.
However, enclaves of violence remain. Homicides remain concentrated in poor outlying and border regions, with high levels of crime in certain underprivileged districts of Bogotá and Medellín. The rural departments of the south-west (Cauca, Nariño, Chocó, etc.) are marked by conflicts between armed groups and traffickers. Emerging armed gangs” (BACRIM) commit extortion and drug trafficking, including in medium-sized cities and small towns (since 2017, several Colombian cities have regularly featured in the world’s highest homicide rates, including Sincelejo in 2023). Street crime (pickpocketing, extortion, assaults) also remains an urban problem: authorities and the media have noted a recent upsurge in scopolamine robberies in public transport and bars.
Safety by region and international perception
According to experts and foreign authorities, safety varies greatly from place to place:
- Bogotá (capital): generally safe compared with the 90s, with a low homicide rate for a metropolis (19/100,000 in 2007), but remain vigilant in certain working-class neighborhoods (snatch thefts in Chapinero, Kennedy, etc.).
- Medellín: relatively safe for visitors, especially in the tourist areas of El Poblado and Laureles. The city center is more hectic, and it is not advisable to travel alone at night on the outskirts or in the popular barrios. Overall, Medellín is cited as a model of urban reconversion.
- Cartagena (Caribbean): a leading tourist destination, the walled old town and seaside districts (Bocagrande, Getsemaní) are ” generally safe “. However, vigilance is recommended at night, and as in any tourist city, petty crime (pickpockets) does occur.
- Medium-sized cities (Cali, Barranquilla, Bucaramanga…): varying levels of violence, sometimes high in deprived urban areas (Cali saw a surge in violence linked to neo-paramilitaries in 2011, although overall crime is falling).
- Rural and border areas: Today, there is a clear contrast between two types of rural areas. On the one hand, many agricultural and tourist regions located in the heart of the country – notably in the coffee region (Eje Cafetero), around cities such as Salento, Manizales or Armenia – are generally very safe. They benefit from strong economic development, a reinforced state presence and a peaceful climate. On the other hand, more isolated rural areas, often located close to borders (with Venezuela, Ecuador or Panama), such as parts of Putumayo or Norte de Santander, remain more dangerous. These territories are still sometimes disputed by illegal armed groups (ELN, FARC dissidents, traffickers), who exercise partial control, impose local rules or even organize blockades or curfews.
Internationally, perceptions remain cautious. Global rankings (peace index, overall homicide rate) place Colombia among the most violent countries in its region. For example, the Global Peace Index 2024 ranks Colombia 146ᵉ out of 163, listing it among states plagued by latent conflict.
That said, the number of international visitors has exploded since 2016, proof that part of the world no longer considers Colombia as perilous as it once was. In 2019, Colombia welcomed around 4.5 million tourists (a record) and the increase continues (nearly 7 million in 2024, more than Brazil!). Travel guides now hail the diversity of the country’s assets: Caribbean beaches, the Andes, coffee-growing, dynamic city life… All the while mentioning the “classic precautions” (avoid prohibited areas, don’t show off valuables, etc.). The return of international organizations to Colombia (France, UN, etc.) also bears witness to the overall improvement.
Tourist safety in Colombia
Colombia is attracting more and more visitors (arrivals up +34% in 2023 compared with 2019), but the authorities stress that vigilance is still required. Official advisors (French, Canadian and U.S. embassies) report a persistent crime rate, particularly in the major cities, with pickpocketing and armed assaults occurring frequently, even during the day. In short, although the situation has improved (a 10.9% drop in crime between 2022 and 2023, according to the national police), travellers should remain on their guard.
Common risks
- Common scams (cabs, currency exchange, fake tours) – Tourists are frequently the targets of scams. For example, some cab drivers wrongly demand payment by card (“machine out of order”) or “lose” your large bill by pretending they can’t give change. In other cases, the cab may take a long detour to inflate the bill, or the taximeter may not work or may have been tampered with. We therefore recommend agreeing the price in advance or using transport apps (Uber, Cabify, hotel cabs) rather than hailing a cab on the street. Likewise, avoid street money changers: they may give you counterfeit money. Always ask the price before buying or booking an excursion, as tourists are often charged a higher “gringo rate”. The same is true of some restaurants (especially on the Caribbean coast), greatly increasing prices for tourists.
- Pickpocketing and purse snatching are widespread forms of petty crime in Colombia, particularly in large cities such as Bogotá, Medellín and Cali. They often occur in tourist areas, public transport, markets or busy streets. Pickpockets target poorly closed bags, phones in back pockets or backpacks slung over the back. Door-slamming, on the other hand, occurs when individuals on motorcycles snatch a bag or phone through the open window of a car, often stuck in traffic.
- Dating and drugs (scopolamine) – Online dating can be dangerous, especially for men. Authorities have noted an upsurge in crimes where Colombian gangs use dating apps (Tinder, Bumble, etc.) to lure lonely tourists. Victims are often drugged (notably with scopolamine, known as “burundanga”, which renders them unconscious) and then robbed or kidnapped. Several recent cases have made the headlines: more than 30 tourists were found dead under suspicious circumstances in Medellín in 2023 (+30% vs. 2022), and there were reports of a +200% rise in robberies against foreigners by the end of 2023. To limit these risks, avoid meeting in isolated places, and don’t let yourself be stupidly seduced by a Colombian woman you don’t know…
- Demonstrations – Demonstrations in Colombia are frequent and can arise spontaneously, particularly in large cities such as Bogotá, Medellín or Cali. They often concern social, economic or political demands, linked to the cost of living, government reforms or the rights of rural populations. Although most are peaceful, some can degenerate into violent confrontations with the forces of law and order, resulting in road blockades, vandalism or the use of tear gas. Travellers are therefore advised to avoid gatherings, keep abreast of local news and avoid areas where demonstrations are taking place. The presidential election period in Colombia can be particularly tense, especially in certain regions of the country.
- Other dangers – In rural and border areas, there are risks associated with armed groups. Authorities advise against non-essential travel in Caquetá, northern Santander, and along the entire Venezuelan border (outside the main towns). Along the Pacific coast (Cauca) and in some remote areas, other armed groups and drug traffickers are active. They frequently impose curfews or threaten travellers. For these trips, prefer air travel recommended by embassies.
Tips for worry-free travel
Vigilance in certain places – Be particularly careful in enclosed or isolated areas. In bars and discos, never leave your drink unattended (risk of scopolamine). In bus stations and markets, keep your bag in front of you and watch out for crowds and pickpockets. Avoid walking alone at night, even in urban areas, and prefer to travel in groups or by cab.
Preferred/avoidable neighborhoods – In each city, find out which areas are safer. In Bogotá, for example, the poorer neighborhoods in the south (Kennedy, Ciudad Bolívar, etc.) are not recommended. The upscale tourist areas (Chapinero, Parque de la 93, Zona T) are more popular and safer. In Medellín, El Poblado and Laureles are generally safer during the day, while some outlying barrios and bridges can be risky, especially at night or during soccer matches. In Cartagena de Indias, the inside of the city walls (old town) and the Bocagrande district are safe during the day, but beware of the deserted alleyways after dark. On the other hand, the isolated beaches of Taganga or Palomino (Caribbean coast) are more often targeted by armed robbers.
Transportation – Prefer app-based cabs (Uber, Cabify, Didi) or official companies recommended by hotels. Never call a cab on the street without checking it first. Buses (both rural and urban) are sometimes the target of theft: always carry valuables with you (passport, bank card, telephone, etc.).
Prudent behavior (no dar papaya) – In Colombia, the popular expression “no dar papaya” literally means “don’t give away papaya”, but its real meaning is: don’t make yourself vulnerable or give someone an opportunity to rip you off or steal from you. Don’t let your wealth show: avoid wearing ostentatious jewelry, luxurious watches or handling your phone in public. Carry only the cash you need for the day. Withdraw money from ATMs located inside banks. When making a withdrawal or payment, conceal your PIN code and make sure no one is watching you.
Conclusion
Despite a history marked by conflict and some persistent security challenges, Colombia has changed profoundly. Many parts of the country – including the major tourist cities, coffee-growing villages, natural parks and the Caribbean coast – are now welcoming, lively and much safer than before. Every year, millions of travellers discover the cultural richness, human warmth and natural diversity of this fascinating country.
The question of safety in Colombia cannot be summed up in a binary way: it is neither a “dangerous” nor a “totally safe” country. The reality is far more nuanced. It’s important to take a step back in the face of extreme discourse: on the one hand, those who describe Colombia as a country to be avoided at all costs – often without ever having set foot there; on the other, those who, seduced by their own travel experience, claim that Colombia is safer than some Western countries. The truth lies somewhere in between.
Yes, there are still real risks in some parts of the country, particularly from armed groups or drug trafficking – but these risks mainly concern local populations and isolated regions rarely visited by travellers. On the other hand, tourist areas, major cities and classic circuits are generally safe today, provided that responsible behavior is adopted. By observing a few simple rules (vigilance, discretion, avoiding unsuitable areas), the risk of incident remains low. Colombia is a country with two faces: complex, contrasting, but profoundly welcoming to those who discover it with openness and lucidity.
No country in the world is completely risk-free. Yet Caro, who has always lived in Bogotá, has only been a victim of theft twice in her life. For our part, we’ve been traveling to Colombia every year since 2018, and by simply following the common-sense rules mentioned above, we’ ve never encountered the slightest worry.
By adopting a few simple precautionary reflexes, informing yourself about areas to be avoided and respecting the “no dar papaya” rule, you can travel to Colombia with peace of mind… and come back amazed.
