No ATM! Sapzurro and Capurganá have no ATMs or banks, so bring enough cash for accommodation, meals, activities and transport.
Our experience
There’s no need to hire a guide for this hike: the trail is easy to follow, can be walked autonomously and the area is safe.
First of all, let us tell you one thing: don’t be like us. Don’t start this lovely hike to the mirador at 10am. Really. Be an early riser. Leaving before 8am is ideal: temperatures are milder, the air more breathable, and above all, your chances of encountering jungle wildlife increase considerably. Monkeys, toucans, maybe… all the things we didn’t see when we left too late (well, let’s be honest, we knew that, but after several busy weeks, the urge to take it easy got the better of us). The result: sweltering heat, omnipresent humidity, and the only companions on the road… a spider and a toad. Voilà voilà.
Let’s go back to the beginning of the day. The morning is already well under way and the sun is shining brightly – perfect for enjoying the view from up here. We leave our hotel in Sapzurro and head south of the village, along the coast. We pass the quay, the church and then, little by little, the houses fade into the background. In their place, a small beach, a few sparse huts, and that gentle feeling of leaving the village and entering another place. As instructed by our host, we carefully scan the huts in search of the famous Café del Mar. Here it is. This is where we leave the coast to turn right and head inland.
Very soon, the hike really begins. A sign for the watchtower appears, the vegetation thickens, and all traces of human life disappear, except for a large, unfinished, seemingly abandoned hut. In front of us lies the small mountain we have to climb to reach the Capurganá viewpoint, entirely covered by a thick green mantle. The first pleasant surprise is that the climb begins with a series of well-designed wooden staircases that allow you to quickly gain height. Be careful, though, as humidity and leaves can make it slippery. After 200… maybe 300 steps, the heat and humidity are already making themselves felt. We’re sweating, thirsty, and realize that our water bottles will have to be rationed.
On the way, it is possible to leave the main path to reach a waterfall. We skipped it – laziness, let’s be honest. In spite of everything, it’s completely calm. We’re alone, with the exception of a couple we passed in the opposite direction. The village is nowhere in sight, the jungle engulfs us, leaving only the path. The stairs end, replaced by a dirt track alternating gentle climbs, steeper sections and a few flat stretches. The good news is that the ground is dry, making progress more pleasant.
As we advance, we observe the vegetation, fascinated by the profusion of sometimes strange, almost unreal plants. The tropical environment is a complete change of scenery. We take regular breaks to catch our breath and check our progress on Maps.me. The watchtower slowly approaches. Then, after what seems like an eternity (when barely an hour has passed), the vegetation clears and the terrain levels out. We’re on a ridge. And then, in the distance, a tower comes into view: the watchtower.
Hidden between the trees, this unsightly but functional concrete tower dominates the area. All around, almost nothing: the remains of a small building, and silence. We climb the few steps to the top… and the view finally opens up. On one side, Capurganá. On the other, Sapzurro. The coastline stretches off into the distance, especially on the Capurganá side, revealing the astonishing Chocó region: small jungle-covered mountains plunging directly into the sea. An almost unreal atmosphere, a touch of Jurassic Park. On the Sapzurro side, the bay reveals itself perfectly, Playa del Ica appears, and you can even make out Panama on the other side of the relief. The shades of blue in the sea are sublime.
We easily spend 30 minutes up there, contemplating, resting and rehydrating. Not wishing to continue to Capurganá, we decide to turn back and return to Sapzurro – a much easier descent. All in all, the hike took us around 2h30, including the 30-minute break, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. After several days exploring the beaches, the need for land and jungle was felt. It’s an accessible outing for anyone accustomed to walking, ideal for getting away from it all, far from the noise of anything other than the engines of boats leaving the villages.
We didn’t have any luck with the wildlife, but as we said at the start: go earlier, and you’ll multiply your chances of spotting monkeys, tropical birds and other jungle inhabitants. As for the view, especially in the sunshine, it’s well worth the effort. Chocó is definitely a place apart, where several natural worlds meet, creating that unique feeling of being at the end of the world.
How do I get to the Mirador de Capurganá?
The viewpoint is located at the top of a small mountain that separates the villages of Sapzurro and Capurganá. Wherever you start from, you’ll have to take a path through the jungle, climb up to the viewpoint, then either descend on the other side or turn around.
Note that the climb is slightly more demanding in the direction from Sapzurro to Capurganá than in the opposite direction.
The Maps.me application is perfect for finding your way around, with all the trails mapped out, so it’s impossible to get lost. Just remember to download the map of Colombia in advance so you can use it offline, as the trail doesn’t appear on Google Maps.
From Sapzurro
To reach the Capurganá viewpoint from the center of Sapzurro, follow the path south from the village, skirting the sea and then a small beach. At Café del Mar, turn right inland and continue along the path that gradually takes you into the rainforest. The path climbs up to a ridge where the viewpoint is located, offering spectacular views of Sapzurro Bay on one side and Capurganá Bay on the other. The hike generally takes between 1h and 1h15, depending on your pace and conditions (heat, humidity, terrain), with a more sustained climb just before the viewpoint. From here, the trail descends towards Capurganá if you wish to extend the hike (allow 1h30 to 2h for the hike between the villages).
From Capurganá
From the village of Capurganá, the viewpoint can be reached by taking the trail that runs north-west through the jungle. The path climbs steadily until it reaches the ridge where the viewpoint is located. The hike generally takes between 45min and 1h , depending on your pace and the conditions, and from the mirador you can either descend to Capurganá or continue to Sapzurro (allow 1h30 to 2h for the hike between the villages).
In either case, if you choose not to stop at the mirador and continue on to the other village, you have several options for the return journey: repeat the hike in the opposite direction if you’re motivated, or rejoin the muelle and take a boat back to your starting point, where you’re staying.
Where to sleep to get to the Mirador de Capurganá?
Lodging in Sapzurro or Capurganá is the most practical option, as the mirador is located halfway between the two villages.
Sapzurro
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Hostal Hilltop
Hostal Hilltop in Sapzurro is a youth hostel appreciated for its beachfront location and superb views. Customer reviews are generally positive, highlighting the warm welcome, friendly atmosphere and comfortable rooms. On the other hand, installations remain simple, less suited to those seeking greater comfort.
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
La Posada Hostal
Posada Hostal is highly rated for its seafront location, cleanliness and relaxed atmosphere, with friendly hosts who help organize activities and excursions. The camping areas and rooms are considered clean and well-equipped, and the catering is appreciated. A few reviews mention variable interactions with staff, but the overall picture remains very positive.
$$ – Average budget
Hotel
Casa Hotel La Mariela
Casa Hotel La Mariela is highly appreciated by travelers for its cleanliness, comfort and convenient location, just a short distance from the beach. Reviews praise the warm welcome, clean rooms and good continental breakfast, as well as help in organizing local activities. Some travelers note, however, that access to some beaches is just a short walk away.
$$ – Average budget
Hotel
Cafe del Mar
Cafe del Mar in Sapzurro is appreciated for its seaside location, the cleanliness of its rooms and the warm welcome of its hosts. Visitors love the home cooking and the tranquil atmosphere overlooking a little-used beach. A few reviews point to minor local power cuts, but overall it’s an excellent option for a quiet, authentic stay.
$$$ – High budget
Hotel
Hotel Cabañas El Paraíso
Hotel Boutique Cabañas El Paraíso is well noted for its location opposite Ica beach, offering direct access to the turquoise waters of Sapzurro and a peaceful tropical ambience. Reviews highlight the cabañas’ comfort, air conditioning and Starlink Wi-Fi, as well as the on-site restaurant. It’s located next to the Sapzurro military base, where music can sometimes be heard late at night on certain weekends.
$$$ – High budget
Hotel
El Fin del Estrés
El Fin del Estrés is a glamping site appreciated for its secluded seaside location outside the village, its clean, comfortable cabañas and the warm welcome offered by the staff. Guests praise the peaceful ambience, Jacuzzi and direct access to the beach. Access may require a short walk from the landing stage, but it’s an excellent option for an authentic, relaxing stay.
Capurganá
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Casa Wago
Casa Wago captivates guests with its exceptional seaside location, clean rooms and warm welcome. The common areas are pleasant and the restaurant popular. On the other hand, Wi-Fi remains limited, and access to the site may require a lancha ride or a short walk, which may come as a surprise to less athletic travelers.
$ – Economical budgeting
Hostal
Cabañas Los Almendros
Cabañas Los Almendros is often praised for its cleanliness, peaceful garden and friendly staff, with a top-rated breakfast and very good value for money. The central location provides easy access to the beach. On the other hand, some travelers mention that power cuts or Wi-Fi can be irregular, typical of Capurganá.
$$ – Average budget
Hostal
La Posada del Gecko
Posada del Gecko in Capurganá is rated very highly (~9.1/10) with customers praising its central location, cleanliness, friendly staff and good value for money. Breakfast, spacious rooms and a friendly atmosphere are often mentioned. However, some inconveniences linked to local power cuts were reported.
$$ – Average budget
Hotel
Hostal Capurgana
Hostal Capurgana is highly appreciated for its central location, just a few steps from the beach, and its friendly, helpful staff. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the breakfast often well rated and the garden pleasant. Wi-Fi is decent but can be slow, and street noise is mentioned by some travelers, typical of downtown.
$$$ – High budget
Hotel
Oleajes Capurganá
Oleajes Capurganá gets excellent ratings (~8.7/10) with many guests praising the cleanliness, the warm welcome from the staff (especially Miguel) and the delicious breakfast. Rooms are generally considered comfortable and conveniently located, close to the muelle and the city center. A few travelers mentioned the noise around them at night.
$$$ – High budget
Hotel
Hotel Katamaran
Hotel Katamaran receives overall very positive ratings (~8.5/10), with guests appreciating the seaside location, cleanliness, spectacular views and warm welcome from the staff. Many praise the comfortable rooms and free Wi-Fi. Some reviews mention power cuts, no breakfast included.
Notes & tips
Take mosquito repellent with you
Heat and humidity in the middle of a tropical jungle: the ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. Apply mosquito repellent before you leave, you’ll thank yourself later.
Take water with you
Heat, combined with high humidity, causes rapid dehydration. Remember to bring plenty of water (no vendors on site).
No ATM!
Sapzurro and Capurganá have no ATMs, so it’s essential to bring plenty of cash in advance.
