Altagracia: magical safari in the Llanos of Casanare

Welcome to the wild adventure of the Llanos du Casanare, with an exceptional safari in Altagracia. Explore these vast Colombian plains, where nature puts on its most authentic show. Between lush meadows and wetlands, discover a dazzling biodiversity, from jaguars (if you’re lucky) to exotic birds.

The Altagracia Nature Reserves are a group of private nature reserves owned and managed by modest ranchers and funded by national and international NGOs – and ecotourism, embodying a community-based tourism model. They are close to tributaries of the Orinoco River and constitute an important natural habitat. They are one of Casanare’s last wilderness areas, where monocultures and extensive agriculture have done little damage. They are extremely isolated and perfect for intrepid travellers wishing to disconnect from civilization.

Take part in an unforgettable safari, observe wildlife in its natural habitat and let yourself be seduced by the enchanting mysteries of the Llanos. Welcome to a world where adventure and nature meet, an unforgettable Colombian safari awaits you at Altagracia.

Legend: Blue: transport terminal – Yellow: activities & visits – Green: accommodation – Orange: restaurants

Below you’ll find the “official” program for our Colombian safari, drawn up after many exchanges with Cunaguaro Travel, and our feedback for each day.

DAY 1 – Transfer day

09:00: departure Yopal – San Luis de Palenque
11:45: lunch at San Luis de Palenque restaurant, La Patrona
13:00: departure San Luis de Palenque – Ecolodge Buenaventura
17:30: welcome at Buenaventura nature reserve and accommodation
18:00: sunset view from Ecolodge
19:00: dinner

Our experience: the adventure to Altagracia turns out to be an isolated epic that’s well worth the effort. Leaving at 09:00 with Javier and his Toyota Hilux for a five-day safari, we were anticipating a long drive, but the unexpected rock’n’roll kicked in. The first few kilometers, on tarmac roads through rice paddies and cattle fields, quickly gave way to dusty tracks. Animals, cow carcasses bearing witness to the drought, punctuated the route until the last part of the journey became totally folkloric: trails barely visible, dense tropical rain turning the journey into a quagmire. Lost in the darkness, Javier, our skilful driver, forgot the way to the ecolodge. The drama. Despite our calls, the lack of cell phone reception dashed our hopes. After an hour lost, an isolated farmhouse finally guides us to our destination at 7pm. Phew, the end of this eventful day.

DAY 2 – Hiking and canoeing

Breakfast
Excursions on foot in the Buenaventura nature reserve
Lunch
Canoe trip in the Buenaventura nature reserve.
Return to Ecolodge in 4*4
Dinner – Rest

Our experience: after a warm night, dawn launches our assault on the Llanos! A four-hour morning hike reveals a multitude of birds on the endless plains. A grove provides the shade needed to observe a troop of howler monkeys, including some adorable newborns. Emerging on the other side, along one of the few drought-resistant lakes, we come across small caimans, birds and even cows. Back to the lodge for lunch, followed by a siesta in a hammock. The afternoon takes us to another lake, in search of giant otters (without success), accompanied by a variety of birds and turtles. The delicious wait gives way to the most magnificent sunset, at around 6 p.m., with palm trees and reflections in the lake. Sublime. Total peace and quiet. As night falls, we return to the lodge to enjoy our dinner, leaving our thoughts to wander.

DAY 3 – 4*4 game drive on the plains

Breakfast
Morning in El Lagunazo nature reserve, in search of wild animals
Lunch
Afternoon in Lagunazo, in search of wildlife
Return to Ecolodge – Dinner – Rest

Our experience: waking up at around 06:00 on our third day, we began our quest for nocturnal creatures close to the lodge. The morning brings an exceptional discovery: a giant anteater observed at close quarters, a strange marvel. On our way, white-tailed deer and hinds cross our path. After an hour or so, we return to the lodge for the all-important breakfast, then head off in the 4×4 to explore the plains and enjoy an air-conditioning break in this intense heat. Once again, a variety of captivating birds, including the surprising Burrowing Owl, cross our path. Luck smiles on us with the encounter of a young 9-banded armadillo, a surprising sprinter, and a collared anteater napping in a grove. After lunch, we head for the anaconda’s lair. Our curiosity is rewarded by an encounter with a 6-7 metre specimen, impressive even if the largest reach 9 metres! Back to the lodge for dinner, immersed once again in the silence of the Llanos immensity, lulled only by the murmurs of nature.

DAY 4 – Hiking and canoeing in the San Andrés nature reserve

Breakfast
Departure by van from Ecolodge Buenaventura – San Cristobal Nature Reserve, search for wildlife and birds
Lunch
Afternoon walk in San Andres Nature Reserve, possibility of observing otters
Return to Ecolodge – Dinner (with campfire, music and dance) – Rest

Our experience: On this final full day in Altagracia, we explore another nature reserve, warmly hosted by an equally lovely family. The morning begins with a short hike around a lake and through a grove, immersing ourselves in the local flora and observing intriguing insects like leaf-cutter ants, forming columns to grow mushrooms. Birds such as the magnificent red ibis, herons and roseate spoonbills make an appearance, as do two giant otters, curious about our presence in the middle of the lake. Sunbathing caimans become spectators of this strange ballet. After a lunch of local fish, we head for the river for a 1h30 canoe trip, revealing stingrays, iguanas and birds. Our guide, fishing piranhas for dinner, mentions the local electric eels, a reassuring piece of information. For our second sunset, a lakeside table with white wine and fruit creates a wonderful atmosphere. The return to the lodge is accompanied by a pleasant surprise: a group of musicians and dancers introduce us to Joropo, the traditional dance of the Llanos, an enriching way to conclude our last night.

DAY 5 – Return transfer to Yopal

05:30 Walk around Buenaventura Ecolodge
06:30 Breakfast
07:30 Departure for Yopal
12:30 Stopover in San Luis de Palenque, lunch
14:30 Arrival in Yopal

Our experience: on our last day, the morning begins with a final walk around the lodge for a last glimpse of the local wildlife before embarking on the 6-7 hour drive to Yopal. Although we didn’t discover any new species, the walk whets our appetite for breakfast. An emotional farewell to Victor and his family, warm and fascinating hosts, marks the end of our stay. The return journey with Javier in his famous white Toyota Hilux unfolds calmly, bathed in sunshine with no rain or uncertainties about the route. Stops along the way to observe and photograph capybaras and jaribus, the region’s largest birds. Yopal welcomes us around 5.30pm, and we opt for a night at the GHL hotel before our flight the next day. After four nights on the farm, the hotel feels like a real palace. So ends this magnificent adventure in the Llanos of Casanare and Altagracia, offering a surprising and little-known image of Colombia, but just as incredible as the rest of the country.

The above timetables are purely indicative. Traffic and weather conditions may affect the program.
The itinerary for days 1 and 5 may vary depending on arrival and departure in Yopal.
Activities do not have a fixed timetable, as they are programmed with the local guide once you arrive at the nature reserve.

Please note: the route to the ecolodge takes around 7 hours of bumpy driving from Yopal, most of it on dirt track!

Accommodation

The Buenaventura accommodation is located in the nature reserve of the same name, part of the Altagracia complex. It is run by Victor and his wife, accompanied by their children and a few employees. Originally a farm (Victor raises cows), it has been expanded to accommodate sustainable tourism and visitors.

Rooms are basic, but clean, with private bathrooms.

There’s no WIFI and electricity comes and goes (remember, we’re far from everything). As far as the telephone network is concerned, we had trouble getting a signal with Claro (so it’s certainly dead with other operators like Movistar). But in case of emergency, Victor has a satellite phone.

So let’s be clear: you can’t imagine returning to your cozy little nest after a day on safari, but you’ll get used to it, especially as it’s only for a few nights.

Power supply

Victor’s wife, with a little help, will prepare traditional homemade dishes from the region, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s not a restaurant, so there’s no menu to choose from, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the food. The food is simple but good, especially after several hours in the heat.

Fresh fruit juice will be served every day (especially mango), and you can expect to eat meat every day (even a chop for breakfast, sisi!). Of course, if you have any special dietary requirements, such as Caro’s vegetarian diet, just let us know beforehand so that we can prepare meals accordingly.

Our guests

Victor, his wife, their two children and a few employees go out of their way to make you feel at home. If you’re fluent in Spanish, it’s a great opportunity to converse with them, discovering not only their lives, but also the ecosystem in which they operate. An enriching human experience. And they also excel at the Joropo dance!

What surprised us most? The 14-year-old girl who sets off on her motorcycle to look for an anaconda, only to return to warn and guide us. The Llanos really are a world apart.

Preparing your departure for the captivating adventure of the Llanos du Casanare begins with the choice of a strategic entry point: Yopal, the department’s capital. Located in the heart of Colombia at the foot of the Andes, this town is the gateway to the wild majesty of the tropical plains.

There are direct buses from 3 main cities usually visited by tourists: Bogotá, Bucaramanga and Tunja. It is also possible to reach Yopal directly from nearby towns such as Sogamoso. However, there are no direct routes from cities such as Cartagena, Cali, Medellín or even Santa Marta.

The airport at Yopal, Colombia, is El Alcaraván Airport and is served by all major Colombian cities, including the recommended airlines Avianca, Latam and Clicair (formerly Easyfly).

Getting to Yopal from Bogotá by bus

Getting to Yopal from Tunja by bus

Getting to Yopal from Bucaramanga by bus

Let’s move on to the real question: how much does it all cost? Please note that the details below are from March 2023, when we carried out this tour. Prices are likely to change over time, but you’ll get a good idea of how much this day is worth.

Clearly, this 5-day tour of Altagracia is not the most economical safari, but specialized agencies offer more affordable tours of 1 day or more in other places, closer or closer to Yopal.

In our case, we took this tour with Cunaguaro Travel, and we recommend it. From the preparation with our questions & the quote to the tour once on site, everything went according to plan and the people were not only adorable but also responsive.

Depending on your wishes, they can tailor-make tours for you, removing one activity and adding another, for example. Likewise, if you’re vegetarian, just let them know in advance and all meals will be made accordingly.

INCLUDES

• Entrance to the nature reserve.
• Return transport from Yopal to the reserve in a 4X4 van.
• Accommodation 4 nights at Ecolodge Buenaventura (1 double room).
• Specified meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee and water) from lunch on day 1 to lunch on day 5.
• Hiking and wildlife observation.
• A canoe is available for two days for wildlife observation.
• A 4×4 vehicle is available in the nature reserve every day for visits.
• Local guide in Spanish.
• Customized details.
• Joropo show: traditional Llanos music and dance.
• Travel assistance insurance.
• Personalized souvenir (gourd decorated with your first name)

NOT INCLUDED

• Plane (or bus) tickets to and from Yopal.
• 19% VAT (IVA in Spanish), only for Colombians and foreigners resident in Colombia.
• Bilingual guide (available at extra cost)
• Tips
• Activities, food and beverages not included in the plan.
• Laundry services