El Valle: 5 magical days in the Colombian Pacific

Do you dream of discovering the Colombian Chocó Pacific, and more specifically El Valle? Then let us tell you about our 5-day experience in this little corner of paradise! This adventure might just help you decide if this is the destination for you.

El Valle is a real gem, still untouched by mass tourism, except during whale season. During our stay, we were lucky enough to plunge into the heart of an unspoilt wilderness, where lush jungle blends into golden sandy beaches bordered by crystal-clear waters.

Every day at El Valle was a new adventure. We explored waterfalls hidden in the middle of the rainforest and encountered an incredible diversity of flora and fauna. The locals, always ready to share their stories and culture, added a warm, human dimension to our trip.

The evenings, lulled by the sounds of nature and the murmur of the waves, offered us a rare tranquillity, conducive to contemplation and relaxation. El Valle, with its authentic charm and breathtaking scenery, offered us an unforgettable escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Dive in with us and discover the treasures of this little-known corner of the Colombian Pacific, to inspire your next adventure.

Legend: Blue: airport – Yellow: activities & visits – Green: accommodation

Here’s the program for our five-day stay in El Valle. This time we kept things simple and opted for an all-inclusive package (accommodation, meals, activities) via the Playa Alegre Ecolodge. We’ve included a review of each day, illustrating how it went and how we felt, to help you form a realistic opinion. Please note that our trip took place at the beginning of April, at the end of the dry season, and outside the whale season (July to October).

DAY 1 – Arrival and beach

We’re in Medellín, a city we’re particularly fond of, to catch a flight from the small Olaya Herrera airport, located in the heart of the city (not to be confused with Jose Maria Cordova International Airport, outside the city). Flights generally depart in the morning. We board a small Satena propeller plane for a 50-minute flight. Through the window, we see the landscape change and change, from the Andes to the jungle, before flying over the magnificent Pacific coast. The landing is already an adventure: we seem to skim the jungle before the plane touches down on a runway appearing out of nowhere.

Here we are at Bahía Solano airport, which, unlike most airports, is a simple tin-and-wood courtyard where we collect our luggage one by one. The heat and, above all, the humidity hit us immediately. The exit is quick, and we are greeted by one of the managers of Playa Alegre Ecolodge, our place of stay. A 45-minute drive ensues in an old 80s car, along a road that is sometimes asphalt, sometimes dirt and gravel, through the jungle to our destination: the small village of El Valle and the El Almejal beach where the lodge is located.

We arrive at around 12:30 and marvel at the place: a vast beach bordered by jungle, with the lodge perfectly integrated between the two. We’re already jubilant. After a tour of the site and settling into our cabin (Venecia 3, which we recommend), lunch awaits us: tuna a la plancha accompanied by a delicious lemonade. The afternoon of this first day is free, ideal for exploring the surroundings and enjoying the Pacific Ocean, as well as the sunset around 6:00-6:30 pm.

Dinner is served quite early, around 6.45pm, to allow the staff to get home. We’re the only ones at the lodge that night. The first night in the Chocó beckons, lulled by the sound of insects (not so far away) and waves, in our bed fitted with a mosquito net.

DAY 2 – Jungle trekking & canoeing on the Tundó and Valle rivers

The second day begins with breakfast at 7.00 am, then we leave at 8.00 am for a guided hike, taking advantage of the milder morning temperatures. Located at the foot of dense jungle-covered hills, the lodge offers direct access to this silent, green world. We set off for a 2-hour hike, punctuated by numerous stops where our local guide shares his knowledge of the region’s flora and fauna.

We’re lucky enough to spot the famous coloured frog Atelopus spurrelli, as well as the dreaded “bullet ant”, whose bite is among the most painful in the insect world. Unfortunately, no mammals are visible, despite our hopes of seeing some monkeys. More frogs crossed our path, but there was no sign of the nephila spiders, often found on webs stretched out in the middle of the trails.

After a two-hour walk of moderate difficulty (with a few climbs, heat and humidity), our guide leads us to the edge of the forest, where a small waterfall and natural pools await us for a well-deserved refreshment. We also come across Jesus Christ lizards and other spiders, probably huntsman, moving swiftly near the water.

Reboosted, we set off again along a path bordered on one side by jungle and on the other by banana plantations. We finally reach the Tundó River, where a wooden canoe awaits us. What follows is a gentle 45-minute ride on the Tundó and Valle rivers, with no engine, just the current and a few strokes of the oar. We rediscover the atmosphere of the Amazon, cruising through the jungle in restful calm, spotting small caimans and a few wading birds, before the current takes us back to the sea and the village of El Valle.

Back at the lodge for lunch, the afternoon is free, perfect for a swim from the magnificent El Almejal beach. In the evening, after dinner, we enjoy an enriching chat with our host, under the stars around a campfire. A great way to end the day, don’t you think?

DAY 3 – Natural pools & Playa Larga

The third day is punctuated by the tidal cycle! After breakfast at around 8.00 am, we meet up with our guide from the previous day at 9.00 am for a new adventure. Today, we’re off for a 25-30 minute walk along El Almejal beach towards “Las Piscinas”. These rock formations, at low tide, hold back seawater and form various natural pools: shallow, crystalline, with no currents or waves. Perfect for an early-morning swim and snorkeling!

It’s the perfect opportunity to bring your own equipment and admire the aquatic ballet of small fish species, crabs hidden in the rocks, and sea urchins (watch your feet!). After 30 to 40 minutes of swimming and underwater exploration, we return to the lodge by the same route. Our ever-careful guide finds coconuts in the nearby jungle, providing us with a refreshing and welcome snack. Along the way, we spot a red-headed chulo (a type of vulture) perched on a rock, watching us.

Back at the lodge, we have about an hour to an hour and a half of free time before enjoying our delicious lunch. In the afternoon, we decide to head off on our own to Playa Larga. Just follow the beach northwards, passing Las Piscinas again. The walk lasts about an hour and a quarter, with particular vigilance for the tides: this morning, the road was well clear, but the afternoon corresponds to high tide.

Playa Larga, wilder and less crowded than Playa El Almejal, is a beautiful destination for enjoying the ocean in complete tranquillity. After a pleasant moment, we return to the lodge to enjoy a magnificent sunset over the Pacific, concluding a day rich in discovery and relaxation.

DAY 4 – Utría National Park & Isla Playa Blanca (snorkeling)

What a beautiful day at Utría National Park! Another local guide picks us up from the lodge and takes us on foot to El Valle, where we board his lancha for an hour’s ride out to sea. Along the coast, and in particular the large Playa Cuevita beach, we are lucky enough to spot some dolphins. Our guide takes a break so we can observe them before resuming our journey towards Utría. On the horizon, small jungle-covered mountains plunge into the Pacific Ocean, evoking a landscape worthy of Jurassic Park.

We finally arrive at the park entrance in Ensenada de Utría, where a friendly park manager welcomes us in a small hut. For about fifteen minutes, he introduces us to the park: its creation, its flora and fauna, and its environmental challenges. We even get to see some animal specimens preserved in formaldehyde, such as snakes and scorpions. These explanations in Spanish are really very interesting.

We then embark on a two-kilometre walk lasting about an hour and a half. We cross mangroves on pontoons before entering a dry forest and finally returning to the boat. Let’s be honest, it’s far too short! We would have loved to explore the park for several more hours, looking for animals. Unfortunately, we didn’t have much luck that day: only a few fish, a ray and crabs were spotted from the pontoon, and in the jungle we saw hummingbirds and lizards, but no monkeys.

In the past, it was possible to spend the night in the park, which offered accommodation in cabins. Unfortunately, this is no longer the case. Once the walk is over, we return to the boat to stop at our first snorkeling site, “el barco”. This is a lancha sunk to the bottom of the water, serving as a refuge for certain marine animals. However, with the high tide (around six meters deep) and visibility not quite Caribbean, we weren’t able to really take advantage of it.

We take the boat back to Isla Playa Blanca (ten minutes by boat). Here, we can swim on small sandy beaches and snorkel along the rocks in calm, transparent water. We saw a variety of small fish, and the island is truly magnificent. All day long, we were practically alone every time!

Finally, we return to the lodge for a late lunch, around 3pm. The rest of the afternoon is spent enjoying Playa El Almejal one last time, with sunbathing and a dip in the sea. What a memorable day!

DAY 5 – Departure & Avis

Last day in this incredible place, already! It’s with a touch of sadness that we enjoy our last breakfast in El Valle, before packing up and resigning ourselves to departure. For us, the adventure continues in Bahia Solano, where new discoveries await us on the Pacific coast. For those leaving Chocó and returning to Medellín, most flights depart in the morning or early afternoon.

It’s time to say goodbye to the wonderful people who make this lodge such a perfect place to recharge your batteries. This stay, isolated at the end of the world and out of time, has been an extraordinary experience on every level: from human relations to organization, via the lodge’s gastronomy, activities and infrastructure. We’ll treasure our unforgettable memories, and have only one thought in mind: to return one day! Farewell El Valle? No, see you soon!

Our opinion:

Nature is the jewel of this region, and it’s important to remember that despite the richness of the wildlife, seeing a multitude of animals is not guaranteed. Luck plays a crucial role. A good tip: arrange with your host and guide to leave at dawn, around 5am, when the animals are most active. This will increase your chances of unforgettable wildlife encounters.

Staying in El Valle, particularly Playa El Almejal, is ideal for adventure-seekers and those accustomed to harsh weather conditions and limited comfort. This destination is not recommended for those seeking services meeting international quality standards, nor for those in poor health. For us, Colombia’s wilder, less populated Pacific coast has an incomparable charm. In comparison, the Caribbean coast is more touristy, more expensive, but offers different and interesting activities. We 100% recommend El Valle and Playa Alegre Ecolodge for their peaceful atmosphere, ideal location and exemplary reliability.

Ecolodge Playa Alegre is located on El Almejal beach, just outside the village of El Valle (15-minute walk to the center). All-inclusive packages include accommodation, all meals and activities, perfect for those who don’t want to spend a lot of time organizing their trip.

This “ecolodge” is a tourism service provider that offers an alternative to conventional mass tourism. These establishments implement ecological practices that benefit the local population and are more respectful of nature, minimizing environmental impact through recycling and waste reduction practices and integrating architecture with the biodiverse environment of the Chocó rainforest, while offering comfort and tranquility to visitors.

Our verdict: We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here, and look forward to returning!

The lodge: wooden cabins on a beautiful estate

As well as being located on the beach, the lodge is also at the foot of hills covered in dense jungle. Accommodation is in simple, clean, timber-framed cabañas, with mosquito-screened beds. Each hut has its own private bathroom. There is no Wi-Fi connection, except near the main hut (where meals are taken), but telephone coverage is present, with some intermittence (the best operator is Movistar for this region). There is continuous electricity, as well as electrical outlets for recharging accessories. There’s also a fan for those who suffer from the heat, especially at night. Let’s face it, don’t expect to find a cozy, luxurious cocoon after a day spent in the heat and humidity. However, you’ll quickly get used to it, especially as it’s only for a few nights.

The property boasts a dozen cabanas, all well-maintained and surrounded by palms and other exotic trees. An artificial mini-lake, ideal for watching Jesus Christ lizards (Basiliscus plumifrons) sunning themselves and running on the water, adds a unique touch to the place. The sea is just a hundred meters away, and the lodge is close to other similar establishments. When we were there in April, a fairly low tourist season, we were the only guests, except for two days when we were joined by another couple. The area is peaceful, with no loud music, and at night, if you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of the waves. From our point of view, it’s an excellent place for those looking for a minimum of amenities, but who also want to immerse themselves in a “lost at the end of the world” atmosphere and in search of tranquillity.

Food: meals as varied as they are tasty

Meals are prepared by locals, offering traditional local dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Although this isn’t a restaurant with an à la carte menu, that doesn’t stop you from enjoying the delights on offer, especially if you like fish. We ate very well, with a wide variety of dishes and plenty of fish to choose from. The fresh fruit juices were particularly appreciated in the heat.

If you have a special diet, like Caro who is a vegetarian, just let us know in advance so that we can adapt the meals accordingly.

The activities

As mentioned above, the lodge offers all-inclusive packages, including on-site activities. Depending on the season and the length of your stay, you’ll have access to a variable number of activities. In general, you can expect one activity per day, lasting from 2 to 5 hours. Activities take place in the mornings, at flexible times depending on the tides for water activities, and you can arrange with the staff on site for the exact times.

This leaves you with a large part of the afternoon free, ideal for resting and relaxing on the beach, or going off on adventures of your own. For example, you can go to Playa Larga on your own, or plan other activities through the lodge’s contacts or directly in the village of El Valle.

This balance makes it possible to enjoy a variety of experiences, both at sea and in the jungle, without being overworked all day long. Remember, it’s hot and very humid, which can be exhausting for some people.

Let’s tackle the key question: how much does it cost? In general, the price of the tour is not excessive, as most expenses are included. However, the main cost is the airfare to and from El Valle.

For our part, we opted for Playa Alegre Ecolodge because we didn’t want to go to the trouble of organizing everything, and wanted an all-inclusive solution (accommodation, meals and activities). And we were completely satisfied with their service. That said, it’s possible to find more competitive options elsewhere. We recommend you read our article on El Valle.

INCLUDES

• Welcome at Bahia Solano airport and transfer to El Valle village, El Almejal beach on day of arrival.
• Transfer to the airport on the day of departure.
• Lodging (Cabane Venecia 3 for us) with private bathroom, fan, hammock and mosquito net in double occupancy.
• Full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner per night of accommodation).
• Boat trip to Ensenada de Utría National Park (park entrance optional).
• Guided tour of the nature reserve.
• Guided canoe trip on the Tundó and Valle rivers.
• Land excursion to aquariums and natural pools.
• Travel insurance.
• Souvenir (small bag).

NOT INCLUDED

• Plane tickets to Bahia Solano airport.
• 19% VAT (IVA in Spanish), only for Colombians and foreigners resident in Colombia.
• Bilingual guide.
• Tips.
• Entrance fee to Bahia Solano adult national, foreign 30,000 COP (child 10,000 COP).
• 8,000 COP airport tax at Bahia Solano on day of return.
• Entrance fee to Ensenada de Utría Park 72,000 COP / person.
• Alcohols and beverages, services not specified in the plan.

Other useful information:

• 20% DEPOSIT at time of booking. It is possible to pay the deposit (or the total) either online (the lodge provides a payment link via a Colombian platform, which in our case worked for one payment but not for a second), or in cash.
• ENTRY and EXIT are subject to the flight itinerary and will be handled individually by hotel management.
• PENALTIES in the event of cancellation: 100% of the total value of the plan if the trip is cancelled for personal reasons – If cancellation is due to force majeure, the case will be studied by the hotel, which will establish the charges and penalties that may apply in accordance with Law 300 of 1996 and its implementing decrees – In the event of loss of flight, change of name or date, a penalty of 100% of the value of the plan applies.

Roots adventure: few comforts & difficult climatic conditions

El Valle is an exceptional destination for discovering another face of Colombia, quite different from the Caribbean coast. However, you need to be prepared for intense heat and high humidity, which can be trying for those sensitive to these conditions. This climate can also lead to increased fatigue. In terms of accommodation, El Valle is far from Western tourist standards. No palaces or 4-5 star hotels. Accommodations are mainly wooden cabins, even for the more expensive options, offering basic amenities. Depending on location, wifi may be absent and electricity limited. This trip is a true immersion in nature and a return to basics, far from modern luxuries and comforts.