Visit Comuna 13: Street art, culture and renewal in Medellin

Comuna 13, made up of 16 neighborhoods in the hills of Medellín, is today a living example of resilience and social transformation. Once considered one of Colombia’s most dangerous neighborhoods, the area has endured decades of violence linked to armed conflict and drug trafficking. Today, it has reinvented itself to become one of the city’s most dynamic and inspiring venues, attracting thousands of visitors every year.

The metamorphosis of Comuna 13 is based on an explosion of creativity and urban art. The district is now an open-air museum, with colorful frescoes covering the walls and telling the story of its inhabitants, their struggles and their dreams. The escalators installed in the heart of the district, symbols of accessibility and progress, allow visitors to explore the steep alleyways while discovering this open-air art gallery.

To visit Comuna 13 is to plunge into a world where art and culture blend with local history to offer a unique vision of Medellín. This part of Medellín represents a powerful message of hope and renewal, testifying to a community’s ability to transform itself by overcoming hardship.

The History and Evolution of Comuna 13

Medellín ‘s Comuna 13 is much more than a neighborhood of colorful murals and international visitors; it embodies a remarkable social and cultural transformation. Once plunged into extreme violence, Comuna 13 is now a symbol of resilience for Medellín and for Colombia as a whole. Here’s a look back at its history, its key moments, and the way in which this neighborhood has been reborn.

Origins: poverty and conflict

Comuna 13, perched in the hills to the west of Medellín, developed under difficult conditions from the outset. During the 1960s and 1970s, the city of Medellín experienced strong internal migration, fuelled by rural families fleeing the poverty and violence ravaging the Colombian countryside. These families, in search of better opportunities, found refuge in outlying neighborhoods like Comuna 13, but without adequate support or infrastructure from the state. The neighborhood was built informally, with precarious housing and high population density, creating a breeding ground for inequality and social tension.

During the 1980s, Medellín became the hub of drug trafficking in Colombia, dominated by the infamous Medellín cartel, led by Pablo Escobar (note: Comuna 13 has nothing to do with him). Comuna 13, with its strategic position on the heights of the city and direct access routes to the rest of Medellín, quickly became a nerve center for drug traffickers. This territory offered them ideal escape and transport routes for their drug shipments. However, this proximity to the cartel plunged the district into a cycle of violence: to control the territory, the cartels imposed their armed presence, terrorizing the local population.

The situation became more complicated in the 1990s with the arrival of guerrilla groups and paramilitary militias. In Colombia, armed conflicts involving these factions had been raging for decades, but Medellín, due to its economic and geographical importance, quickly became a battleground. Comuna 13 was a strategic location for these groups: its proximity to roads and traffic zones made it a prime site for armed operations. These groups began to fight for control of the territory, each seeking to impose itself by force.

Guerrillas, in particular the National Liberation Army (ELN) and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), have established active cells in Comuna 13. At the same time, paramilitary militias claiming to be fighting the guerrillas invaded the district, leading to daily clashes. Residents, caught between these factions, lived in constant fear of gunfire, reprisals and forced displacement. According to estimates, thousands of people were forced to leave Comuna 13 at the height of the violence, while others, left without a solution, remained trapped in a daily life marked by terror.

Poverty rates, already high, increased due to the neighborhood’s insecurity and isolation. Public services were non-existent or inefficient, and the outmoded state was unable to guarantee the population’s security or provide economic opportunities. Unemployment and lack of access to education reinforced inequalities and fuelled delinquency networks, with young residents sometimes seeing gangs as their only means of survival and respect. Forced recruitment into armed groups was frequent, with young boys enlisted to serve in deadly combat, and young girls often the victims of violence.

Military operations: from tension to pacification

By the early 2000s, Comuna 13 had become a focal point of the Colombian armed conflict and an extremely dangerous area for its inhabitants. Due to its strategic location in the hills above Medellín, this district was coveted by various armed groups, including guerrillas such as FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) and ELN (National Liberation Army), paramilitary militias and drug gangs. For these groups, controlling Comuna 13 meant dominating a key territory for smuggling routes and maintaining influence over the city. Faced with growing violence, the Colombian government decided to intervene radically to re-establish state control in the area.

The Mariscal operation: first takeover attempt in 2002

The first major military intervention took place in May 2002, under the name Operation Mariscal. It was one of the initial attempts by Colombian security forces to regain control of Comuna 13 from armed groups. The operation mobilized the army, police and special forces, with the aim of neutralizing the guerrilla and drug networks operating in the area. However, Operation Mariscal was marked by intense violence and fierce confrontations that took a heavy toll on the inhabitants. This first operation failed to stabilize the situation and provoked strong criticism, due to reported human rights abuses and collateral damage to civilians.

Despite the efforts of the authorities, Comuna 13 remained plagued by armed violence, and criminal groups continued to exercise almost total control over the Comuna. Tensions between residents and the authorities increased, as the population saw the security forces as an additional source of violence, rather than as protection.

Operation Orion: the most striking military intervention

Faced with this failure, the government launched an even more ambitious and controversial operation in October 2002: Operation Orion. This military intervention, led by President Álvaro Uribe, was aimed at definitively retaking Comuna 13. It was one of the largest urban security operations ever carried out in Colombia. Around 1,500 soldiers, police and paramilitaries took part, supported by helicopters and armoured vehicles. Security forces advanced into the neighborhoods of Comuna 13, directly confronting guerrillas and paramilitary groups, with the mission of neutralizing any armed resistance.

The operation lasted several days and ended in intense fighting, with explosions, gunfire and raids in the narrow streets of Comuna 13. Residents found themselves trapped in their homes, unable to leave as the fighting was literally taking place on their doorsteps. According to eyewitness accounts, the violence was so intense that civilians had to hide under beds or in remote corners to avoid the crossfire. The neighborhood took on the appearance of a battlefield, and many houses were damaged or destroyed by the fighting.

While Operation Orion did indeed reduce the hold of armed groups, it had disastrous human and social consequences. Numerous allegations of human rights violations were reported. According to official figures and local NGOs, dozens of people were killed, while others went missing, some after being arrested by security forces or allied paramilitary militias. The civilian population also suffered atrocities, and hundreds of residents were forcibly displaced, fleeing the violence to find refuge elsewhere in Medellín.

Consequences and controversies

Operation Orion leaves a deep imprint on the collective memory of Comuna 13 and Medellín. For many, it symbolizes a violent and repressive state intervention, marked by serious abuses and a lack of justice for the victims. Human rights associations and families of the missing continue to demand answers and official recognition of the abuses perpetrated during this operation. Every year, the families of the victims gather to commemorate the missing and remember the suffering inflicted on the local population.

Despite these criticisms, from the government’s point of view, Operation Orion marked a turning point for Medellín’s security. Armed violence gradually diminished after the intervention, and Comuna 13 escaped the direct control of criminal groups for the first time in decades. Although still fragile, the neighborhoods regained a semblance of stability, paving the way for a process of pacification and social transformation.

Towards rebirth

After decades marked by violence and insecurity, Comuna 13 has embarked on a spectacular transformation, based on art, culture and urban development. This renewal, which began in the early 2010s, has restored hope to a community that had long been marginalized, while drawing the world’s attention to the incredible resilience of the people of Medellín. This transformation is the fruit of a number of public and community initiatives, aimed not only at improving living conditions, but also at restoring a positive identity to the district.

Art for resilience: street art

One of the most striking aspects of the transformation of Comuna 13 is the emergence of street art as a means of expression and collective memory. The district’s walls, once austere, are now covered with colorful frescoes recounting the history, suffering and resilience of the inhabitants. Street art has become a powerful visual language for paying homage to the victims of past conflicts and celebrating the courage of local residents. This artistic explosion, driven largely by local artists and supported by NGOs and associations, has transformed Comuna 13 into a veritable open-air gallery.

The works, often by local but also international artists, address themes of social justice, peace and reconciliation. Children’s faces, symbols of peace and depictions of local heroes dot the walls, creating a visual journey rich in emotion and messages of hope. Artists, once victims or witnesses of violence, have reclaimed their neighborhoods through painting, transforming the streets into places of memory and sharing. Some of the best-known artists, such as Chota13, have gained international recognition and become spokespeople for this transformation, attracting visitors from all over the world eager to discover this new visual identity.

Escalators: an innovation that transforms everyday life

In 2011, the local government inaugurated a bold and symbolic project: the first open-air public escalators, installed in Comuna 13. These escalators, with a total length of 384 meters, provide an easy link between the different parts of the districts, which are located on steep hills. Before they were installed, residents had to climb the equivalent of 28 storeys to get from one end of Comuna 13 to the other, which was a daily challenge, especially for the elderly, children and families with young children.

The installation of these escalators has had a significant impact on the daily lives of local residents, making it easier for them to get around, but it also has a strong symbolic impact: it marks the city’s willingness to integrate Comuna 13 and give it concrete support. This infrastructure project has also helped to attract visitors, making the stairs a must-see location, both for their innovative character and for the panoramic view they offer over the city.

The Comuna 13 escalators are more than just a means of transport: they embody the opening up of the neighborhoods to the rest of the city and accessibility for all. Their installation has inspired other cities in Latin America and beyond, demonstrating that an innovative infrastructure project can change not only the urban landscape, but also a community’s development prospects.

Cultural centers and community initiatives

Urban development in Comuna 13 has also included the creation of cultural centers and community spaces. These spaces enable young people to express themselves through artistic disciplines such as dance, hip-hop, music and theater, offering them an alternative to violence and gangs. Community initiatives such as Casa Kolacho, founded by local artists, play a key role in the social rehabilitation of Comuna 13’s neighborhoods. These centers organize mural painting, photography, music and dance workshops for young people, who are thus invited to take an active part in changing their neighborhoods.

Hip-hop, in particular, has become a central part of Comuna 13’s culture. Local rap groups use their lyrics to denounce past injustices, to talk about their daily reality and to promote a message of peace and transformation. This movement has inspired many young people and helped reduce the crime rate in this part of the city, giving young people a positive identity and an outlet for their frustrations.

The impact of tourism and the local economy

The transformation of Comuna 13 has turned this once stigmatized area of Medellín into a major tourist destination. Tourists, attracted by street art, escalators and the district’s unique history, now flock to discover this part of the city. Tourism has boosted the local economy: locals open craft stores, cafés and restaurants, and some even offer guided tours, telling the history of the area in their own words.

This economic activity, directly supported by tourist numbers, has created jobs and improved the quality of life for many residents. However, the inhabitants of Comuna 13 insist on the need to manage this tourism in a sustainable way, so that the benefits accrue directly to the community and the cultural essence of the district is preserved. Managing the influx of tourists has thus become a major challenge, and initiatives have been put in place to raise visitors’ awareness of the need to respect local culture.

Limits and challenges ahead

Although the transformation of Comuna 13 is widely acclaimed for its successes in urban, social and cultural development, it is far from having solved all the problems facing the district. Efforts undertaken over the last few decades have certainly improved the quality of life for residents, but challenges remain, both economically and socially. The neighborhood continues to face obstacles that could hinder its sustainable development if solutions are not put in place.

Economic fragility and dependence on tourism

One of the limits to the transformation of Comuna 13 lies in its dependence on tourism, which is now a major source of income for many residents. While the boom in tourism has stimulated the local economy, it has also created a certain precariousness: prosperity depends directly on tourist numbers, a sector that is vulnerable to economic fluctuations and political and health crises. The COVID-19 pandemic, for example, showed how a sudden drop in visitor numbers can weaken the economy of Comuna 13. In the event of a downturn in tourism, the area’s economic stability could again falter, highlighting the need to diversify sources of income and strengthen the local economy.

Balancing tourism and cultural authenticity

Today, Comuna 13 is a place where art and culture attract visitors from all over the world, but this tourist craze also poses a challenge: how to preserve the authenticity of local culture in the face of commercialization and tourist pressure? Some residents are concerned that the Comuna is being transformed into an “artificial” tourist attraction, where street art and cultural activities lose their original meaning and are adapted to the expectations of tourists. The community wishes to preserve the sincerity of its art and prevent Comuna 13 from becoming a mere consumer product.

Community initiatives therefore seek to educate visitors about the importance of respecting the neighborhood and maintaining a balance between tourism and local life. But this balance remains fragile and requires ongoing support, as well as regulation to ensure that the benefits of tourism accrue directly to residents and that cultural authenticity is preserved.

Persistent social problems

Despite the progress made in terms of safety, certain social problems remain in Comuna 13. Neighborhoods still face relatively high rates of poverty, and many young people lack educational and professional opportunities. While significant efforts have been made to offer young people alternatives to violence, notably through artistic and sporting initiatives, neighborhoods still suffer from a lack of resources and infrastructure to meet educational and training needs.

Moreover, the presence of gangs and criminal activity has not completely disappeared. Some organized groups remain and exert pressure on residents, particularly young people, who may be tempted to join these networks due to the lack of economic prospects. These problems underline the need for more far-reaching social development policies, including programs to support education, employment and local entrepreneurship, in order to offer sustainable alternatives to new generations. Many merchants also have to pay the vacuna to these gangs, a tax introduced by them.

Inclusion and participation of local residents in decision-making

Another challenge is to ensure that the transformation of the Comuna continues to be driven by the residents themselves, so that they are at the center of decision-making and change. Although the local population has been a key player in the transformation of Comuna 13, there is a risk that certain development projects will be decided without proper consultation of residents, particularly when external economic and tourism interests come into play.

The community wishes to retain control over the initiatives that shape their neighborhoods, to prevent projects from distorting the essence and history of Comuna 13. It is therefore essential to strengthen mechanisms for citizen participation and dialogue between local authorities and residents, to ensure that future projects truly meet the needs of the population.

Our experience: visiting Comuna 13 with Zippy Tour

Background: we visited Comuna 13 in 2018 with Zippy Tour (free tour). Back then, there was less choice of service providers (notably the independent French-speaking guides mentioned later in this article). Similarly, there were no other alternatives to explore, such as comunas 1, 3 or 8.

Today, there’s a wider choice of service providers, and we’d probably opt for a paying guided tour with a very small group. This would allow us to discover not only the must-sees of Comuna 13, but also more confidential places, far from the tourist hustle and bustle.

It’s worth remembering that free tours, like those offered by Zippy Tour, tend to be classic tours, frequented by many visitors and often organized in large groups.

Our adventure begins at the San Javier metro station, where our guide has arranged to meet us. As soon as we arrive, several guides greet visitors, each forming his or her own group. We find our own and join a group of twenty people ready to discover the secrets of Comuna 13. The tour, which lasts around 2.5 hours, takes place on foot, in a tranquil atmosphere, leading us through various sectors. Comuna 13 is actually a group of 16 neighborhoods, and today our guide will take us through four or five of them.

A native of the Comuna, our guide is a young man from one of the Comuna’s neighborhoods, captivating and passionate about its history. He shares with us the dark hours of Comuna 13, the struggles and dramas he experienced, taking us back to a difficult past. But it also evokes the revival and metamorphosis of the Comuna over the years, to become one of Medellín‘s most emblematic tourist spots.

From the outset, the guide’s voice transports us into a rich narrative, punctuated by intense memories and personal anecdotes. He recounts how Comuna 13, once the epicenter of the violence that marked Colombia, was reborn thanks to the resilience of its inhabitants. This is not just a visit, but a conversation with an entire neighborhood, a dialogue in which every street corner, every painted wall reveals a chapter of this living book.

Climbing up the slopes of the Andes, as you enter the Comuna, you can also admire 2 of the things for which it is so famous. Firstly, the murals (graffiti, street art), emblems of peaceful resistance, captivate as much as they challenge. Their vivid colors and powerful messages spread across the walls like cries of freedom and hope. The guide, his gaze proud and warm, pauses in front of some of them, sharing their story, the message hidden behind each brushstroke. These are not mere works of art, but pieces of the soul, testimonies of courage that tell of the inhabitants’ quest for peace and dignity. Through the guide’s explanations, each painting becomes a window on the life, culture and dreams of those who have rebuilt their neighborhood brick by brick, color by color. Local artists, but also those from all over the world, come to decorate the walls of the Comuna, transforming it into an open-air art gallery!

Secondly, the emblematic escalators, true symbols of the urban transformation, gently carry us to the heights of the Comuna. This innovative system has made life easier for the inhabitants, while at the same time becoming a bridge between visitors and the history of the area. We stop at the top, where the view over Medellín is breathtaking. You can feel the pride of this district, which, against all odds, has turned the page on violence to build a better future. Below us, the city stretches out like a moving canvas, where past and present intertwine, and every house and alleyway seems to breathe new life.

The guide then leads us to several viewpoints, from which we can contemplate not only Comuna 13, but also the expanse of Medellín in the distance. These improvised gazebos are often nestled in the homes of local residents, who have set up welcoming spaces where traditional Colombian snacks can be enjoyed, for those who wish. Much more than a simple gourmet stop, this break supports the local economy while offering the chance to share a moment with residents, forging a fleeting but warm bond with those who make the Comuna’s heart beat faster.

As the tour progresses, groups of hip-hop dancers (including Black and White, surely the most famous group) and young musicians take to the stage, offering the audience a vibrant show of dynamism and creativity. Music and dance, vectors of resilience and expression, echo the guide’s stories, adding a festive and moving note to this immersion. The omnipresent street culture has become one of the languages of the Comuna, a language that Zippy Tour allows us to hear and feel, leaving us with the impression of having not only visited a neighborhood, but of having penetrated to the very heart of its soul.

Comuna 13 guides (graffiti tour)

Visiting Comuna 13 with a guide is an excellent way to explore the neighborhood in a safe and rewarding way. The guides, often local residents, share their personal stories and those of the Comuna’s transformation, offering details and anecdotes you wouldn’t find on your own.

Tours of Comuna 13 generally last around 3 hours.

French-speaking guides (private tours at an additional cost) :

1. Tom, a Frenchman living in Medellín: tomtravelguide
2. David, a Colombian born in Medellín who speaks French: his facebook page
3. Jonathan, another Frenchman living in Medellín: medelguide

Free waklking tours (tours in English or Spanish, often in large groups, you can drink to your heart’s content, often from 20,000 – 30,000 COP per person):

1. Zippy tour: https: //www.zippytourcomuna13.com/

To visit Comuna 13 in Medellín, there are several transport options available to you:

1. Metro: take line B towards San Javier, the last station on this line.
2. Bus: from San Javier station, you’ll find local buses (221-I) serving various points in Comuna 13. Don’t hesitate to ask the drivers or follow the signs for directions to the main tourist areas.
   On foot (recommended): if you like walking, you can also reach parts of Comuna 13 directly on foot from San Javier. The path is fairly easy to access and allows you to explore the Comuna at your own pace.

Staying in Medellín is ideal for exploring Comuna 13, with a varied choice of accommodation to suit all budgets and preferences. Two districts are particularly popular with visitors:

1. El Poblado, famous for its vibrant nightlife and high-end hotels. This is Medellín’s most expensive district, where prices can be high for almost anything.

2. Laureles, which offers a more local atmosphere and more affordable accommodation.

Both areas offer numerous accommodation options and a wide variety of restaurants.

Please note: it’s generally not advisable to stay in the city center (La Candelaria), which can be less safe at night than El Poblado and Laureles. As always, caution is advised, as risks can be present in all neighborhoods.

$ – Economical budgeting

Hostal

Masaya Medellin
(Poblado)

One of the city’s best hostels, conveniently located in the Poblado, with a rooftop pool. Nice view too!

LEARN MORE

$ – Economical budgeting

Hostal

Bakú Laureles Hostel
(Laureles)

A simple, welcoming hostel in the Laureles district with all amenities around. Very good staff.

LEARN MORE

$$ – Average budget

Hotel

Hotel Loyds
(Poblado)

The Hotel offers a comfortable stay with attentive service, spacious rooms and a central location, ideal for discovering the city.

LEARN MORE

$$ – Average budget

Hotel

Los Patios Cool Living
(Laureles)

Los Patios Cool Living offers a modern, stylish stay with well-designed rooms, a friendly atmosphere and top-quality facilities.

LEARN MORE

$$$ – High budget

Hotel

El Cielo
(Poblado)

Perhaps the best hotel in Medellin, luxurious and modern, with spectacular views and exceptional service, guaranteeing a memorable stay.

LEARN MORE

$$$ – High budget

Hotel

First Class Hotel
(Laureles)

Although Laureles is not renowned for its high-end hotels, this hotel offers pleasant accommodation and impeccable service at a good price.

LEARN MORE

$ – Economical budgeting

Home stay

Call Me Mami
(Comuna 13)

Call me Mami is a non-profit initiative run by a Frenchman in Comuna 13. It enables Medellín’s housewives to host travelers in a family atmosphere. Income from accommodation goes directly to the families.

LEARN MORE