Visit the finca de Ariel (Arcoiris coffee finca): coffee trees overlooking the Cauca Canyon

To visit a coffee finca in Colombia is to plunge into the heart of a country whose history and culture are intimately linked to this beverage. These farms, often nestled in the verdant valleys of the Andes, offer a unique experience where tradition and know-how meet. As you tour the plantations, you’ll discover the fascinating process that transforms coffee cherries into roasted beans, ready to awaken the senses. Each stage, from hand-picking to sun-drying, reveals the painstaking work often handed down from generation to generation.

But beyond the technical aspect, visiting a finca also means meeting passionate producers, proud to share their heritage and way of life. It’s an authentic immersion in the daily lives of rural Colombian families, where hospitality is as rich as the surrounding landscapes.

A beautiful moment on the farm

In a lazy mood, we take one of the all-terrain vehicles from the main square at 11am. We’ll be the only two people on the trip, in an almost 50-year-old Toyota! The 50-minute drive, at low speed on footpaths, takes us into Jericó’s surrounding countryside, with houses, then farms, becoming more and more isolated. And coffee plantations hugging the gentle contours of Antioquia’s Andean relief. Shortly before noon, we reach a house at a crossroads. The driver tells us to get off here to reach the famous Finca de Ariel.

Ariel is waiting for us (we had contacted him the day before to let him know). We pay the fare and make our way to our host for the afternoon: a rather short man with a beautiful smile lighting up his face. After introductions, we head for the finca. It’s a 25-minute walk to our destination. And it’s quite a short walk, with some steep inclines! Eventually, we make our way downhill, and catch a glimpse of the property: coffee plants, but also banana and fruit trees in the distance, such as lemon and mandarin trees.

A dog comes to meet us. Originally intended as a guardian of the premises, this handsome German shepherd is in fact a star among the visitors, looking for petting and petting (and food), somewhat neglecting his role as protector. We reach the finca: a beautiful, colorful little house typical of the region, with flowers everywhere, surrounded by plantations. Ariel invites us out onto a small terrace to enjoy a good natural mango juice, and to admire the view. And what a view it is! We’re looking out over the Cauca Canyon, and the Rio Cauca below. The finca is indeed situated on the edge of a gentle cliff, offering an insane panoramic view. We’re already won over: very few coffee fincas in the whole country offer such a bewitching location. Ariel takes the opportunity to briefly explain the surrounding geography. Not far away, there’s a waterfall on the side of a cliff, but bad luck, it was dry at the time of our visit (in the middle of the El Niño period, marked by high temperatures and abnormally low rainfall).

Then we meet his parents, just as kind and welcoming as the son. Their simplicity and politeness are quite appreciable in a world that’s becoming stranger and stranger. It feels like a return to basics, with the human being at the center of everything, far removed from materialism.

It’s almost 1pm and lunch is waiting for us. Mom has prepared the famous bandeja paisa, a rich, simple but delicious local dish. Caro will have a hearty vegetarian version, but the dog will help us eat it all eh!

Once we’ve had our fill, it’s time to find out what it’s like to work at the finca. First, Ariel takes us to the plantations, equipping us with a basin tied to our waists (yes, coffee is harvested by hand only). We turn into cafeteros and pick a few coffee beans (red only, mind you!). Ariel gives us a lot of information on coffee bean harvesting and management: how many years does it take for a coffee plant to produce beans, how long does it last, parasite threats, etc. He also explains that if we find a coffee plant, we’ll have to pay for it. He also explains that it’s no coincidence that we find banana trees alongside coffee trees. The two work in symbiosis. The banana tree provides shade, as well as a water reserve for the coffee plant. Nothing is left to chance!

This is followed by the process of extracting the grain using a system of homemade machines that seem to be quite efficient. This process enables large volumes to be processed rapidly. Good beans are sorted from bad. Waste materials such as skins and pulp are then reused in the plantations as compost. The grains are then dried in the sun for several days, before being sorted according to quality. First-quality beans are mainly destined for export, while second-quality beans are for the Colombian market (a question of purchasing power). Export coffee is stored in 50kg canvas bags (yes, 50, hello back!). Roasting takes place at the last moment, once the coffee has arrived at its destination in France or the United States, for example, to preserve its aroma as long as possible.

As for us, we’re going to grind a few beans of coffee roasted on site and then enjoy it with Ariel, delicious (it must be psychological because we’re in the heart of a coffee finca, perhaps). One thing’s for sure, with explanations that are both comprehensive and not too lengthy (really well balanced to interest laymen), producing coffee takes a lot of time and work. More than we imagined. Great respect to all the people who work in the coffee fincas. It’s physical, repetitive work, requiring both speed and attention to detail. Especially when you consider that the workers are paid by the harvested weight!

It’s 3.30pm, and we already have to leave to catch the 4pm car. The same walk back to the crossroads awaits us, except this time we have to climb. Not easy under the blazing sun, and after a hearty meal! We’ll be so slow that Ariel will scout ahead to let the driver know we’re coming. In the end, we’re the ones waiting for the driver, who arrives 15 minutes late.

It’s time to say goodbye. It didn’t take long for Ariel and her family to win us over. They know how to put people at ease, and their good humor is contagious. We ate well in a superb location, in an impressive setting. The coffee plantations mingling with the other plants, with lots of birds around (including hummingbirds!) gave us a strange feeling of being back to basics. Without the slightest doubt, this experience will remain a beautiful memory, which we recommend without hesitation to any traveler (speaking Spanish will help a lot!). Thank you, Ariel.

Price

The 4-hour tour costs 50,000 COP / person, including lunch. Direct rate with Ariel (no intermediaries). Transportation not included.

It’s possible to stay longer, for example to go to a nearby waterfall for a few pesos more. And even if you feel like it, you can make arrangements with Ariel if you’d like to do something extra.

It is also possible to buy packs of coffee (bean or ground) for 40,000 COP/pack.

Contact Ariel

We recommend that you contact Ariel at least a few days before the date of your visit.

To arrange a visit, contact Ariel directly (in Spanish, he doesn’t speak English):

• Via Whatsapp 57 (314) 873-4921
• Via Facebook

Finca de Ariel can be reached from the beautiful colonial village of Jericó.
The journey, by all-terrain vehicle, takes 50-60 minutes, and involves gravel roads (trails).

By public transport (4*4 colectivo)

Go to the central square (Parque Principal de Jericó), at carrera 5. Old 4*4s (Jeep or Toyota) leave at 06:30 and 11:00. The cost of the trip is 8,000 COP/person (so 16,000 COP round trip). If it’s crowded, you’ll have to squeeze in a little. It can be quite a folkloric trip, and a good way to share a piece of the traditional life of the locals.

No need to book, just turn up about 15 minutes before departure time. Pay the driver directly in cash.

Then it’s a 20-30 minute walk to Finca de Ariel (he waits for visitors where the jeep stops). Although the walk is relatively short, it goes up and down quite steeply, so you clearly need to be physically fit.

By private transport

For one reason or another, it’s perfectly possible to get there by private transport. The easiest way is to go to Jerico’s main square and talk to the drivers, who are sure to direct you to the right person.

This offers greater scheduling flexibility, and a little more comfort.

Private tour with English-speaking guide

If Spanish and organization aren’t your thing, you can go through Kaanas Travel, a travel agency run by Cathy, a Frenchwoman who has lived in the region for several years. She offers guided tours in and around Jericó. Depending on the number of people and your requirements, a personalized quote will be provided.

This is the most expensive option, but ideal for people who don’t want to spend too much time organizing.

Jericó is the closest village to the finca de Ariel. And that’s perfect, because it’s also one of Colombia’s 17 heritage villages that must be visited at least once. Two birds with one stone!

Finca de Ariel also offers accommodation. A small house overlooks the coffee plantations from a small hill, again with a beautiful view of the Canyon. Ideal for those seeking peace and quiet and wanting to find out more about campesino life. Whatsapp contact: 57 (314) 873-4921

$ – Economical budgeting

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